It's Not About The Onions

We were looking forward to having a few days stop in Vidalia, LA mainly to check out the barges going up and down the river. Haven't seen that before.

Vidalia, LA is situated on the Mississippi River across from Natchez, MS. Vidalia was named after the Spanish explorer Don Jose Vidal and remained under Spanish rule until the United States acquired it under the Louisiana Purchase of 1803.  Today, it's a small friendly town of approximately 4,000 people. The town sits at 65 feet above the river so yes when Vicksburg was flooded in 2011 so was Vidalia. The main tourist attractions are back across the river in Natchez. We decided to save them for another time, this was about sitting back, relaxing outside on a beautiful day watching the barges push their loads up and down the river.

We chose River View RV Park mainly because of it's location on the banks of the Mississippi. They have over 200 concrete padded sites mostly pull-thru, all with full hook-ups including cable. The pool stays open year round but is not heated. Susan asked for a pool, I got her a pool and now she wants it heated. Oh well, back to the drawing board.

One of the nice features about this park is the accessibility to Vidalia Landing Riverfront Park. It's a green space the city developed to beautify the riverfront. It includes a walking/biking trail, a boat ramp, picnic benches, and more. I was able to get a close look at the barges and the Vidalia-Natchez Bridge.

Injury report. Yes, Precious had another injury. As the story goes we were venturing out for an early supper but decided to drive around the campground first. After a short drive we got back on the paved roads and I could hear a click, click, click noise coming from one of the tires. We stopped, we looked, then we hung our heads because we knew our early supper was going to turn into a late one. Did I forget to mention that a few curse words passed by my lips. Man, we have the worst luck with tires.

I drove to the closest tire repair shop (Vidalia Tire Repair) and the guy was able to help me right away. The spare is brand new. I bought it before going to Labrador.  So he took the BOLT not nail out of the injured tire. Switched the tires and rims out. Fixed the tire with the hole. Put Precious all back together again just like Humpty Dumpty. They charged us only $30 bucks cash for all that. I gave the guy $40 cash.

All that work gave me an appetite so we decided to go for supper at a place called Johnnie Mae's Seafood and Grill. I was surprised when we were the only people in the restaurant. The food was fantastic. Susan was patiently waiting. We started with the Mama Johnnie Crab Cakes. They were the best.

I had "The Combo" which consisted of a blackened catfish fillet and grilled jumbo shrimp while Susan had a bowl of seafood gumbo. They were fantastic.

Susan mentioned that the gumbo was amazing but not quite as good as the gumbo our friend Nancy makes. I think she is hoping for a dinner invite next time we see them. 

After supper I stopped at the campground front desk with the bolt in hand. Explained what happened and they were willing to reimburse us if I had a receipt which I didn't. We decided to call it a day, a drink awaits us at the rig. The drink is worth more than $40 bucks right now. Just another day in the life of an RVer.

Vicksburg, MS: A City Under Seige

The next stop on our trip south was Vicksburg, MS. We decided or should I say I decided to make a stop here mainly because of the history associated with this city. Vicksburg lies 40 miles due west of Jackson(the state capital) on the Mississippi and Yazoo Rivers. First occupied by the Natchez Indians then settled by the French in 1719, Vicksburg soon became a major trading post along both rivers.

Years ago floods and battles had a devastating effect on the city of Vicksburg. Most recently the flood of 2011 the Mississippi River spilled over her banks causing massive destruction and loss of lives. The picture below shows the flood marks that have occurred in Vicksburg. Above Susan's head is the 2011 gage mark of 57.1 feet. 

The Mississippi River drains 41% of the continental US. The basin covers more than 1,250,000 square miles including 2 Canadian Provinces. So, the moral of the story is when there are heavy rains in the spring and winter ice and snow melt there will be flooding. Levee walls are built to help contain the flooding. To beautify the city, artists were commissioned to paint murals on the wall depicting the history of Vicksburg. Below shows Washington St in 1839 becoming the commercial center for Vicksburg.

In 1894 Joseph Biedenham took the popular soda fountain drink Coca Cola bottled it and went door to door in rural areas selling it. It was the first time Coca Cola had been bottled.

President Theodore Roosevelt was hunting bear in the woods. His scout had cornered a young cub. Not wanting to shoot it, the term Teddy's Bear was coined by toy manufacturers, later it was changed to Teddy Bear.

After touring the downtown area I sure needed some lunch. So who better than to ask but the locals in the area. They all suggested a place called 10 South Rooftop Bar & Grill which is on the corner of Washington and Clay Street. Amazing views of the Mississippi and Yazoo Rivers.

View of The Old Courthouse & Downtown Vicksburg

The food was amazing. Susan ordered Chicken and Waffles which consists of their famous fried chicken and a sweet potato cornbread waffle with maple chili glaze. Yum! I ordered the Blackened Yazoo City Catfish with a sweet corn maque choux. I have no idea what that was but I do know it was fantastic.










Oh yes, we can't forget the warm spiced pretzels with a sweet cajun mustard.


Before leaving Vicksburg one of the must things to see and do is spend time at the Vicksburg National Military Park. We started our tour at the visitors center watching a 20 minute film which recounts the campaign of Vicksburg and surrounding area. After the film our 16 mile driving tour took us past monuments, markers, plaques, a restored Union gunboat, and a national cemetery.

The Vicksburg National Military Park was established in 1899 to honour the soldiers and sailors that fought in the campaign. 

The Massachusetts Memorial was the first state memorial erected at the park. It was dedicated in November 1903.



In 1862 congress sanctioned black enlistment but it was the Emancipation Proclamation that opened the door for runaway slaves and free men of colour. Nearly 175 regiments of over 178,000 free men and former slaves served during the campaign.

The Battle of Vicksburg began May 19, 1863 and ended July 4, 1863 calling it the 43 day war. Located on a strategic bend of the mighty Mississippi River, Confederate troops fortified the bluffs with an array of artillery. General Ulysses S Grant had the task of conquering the "Gibraltar of the Mississippi". It was not the Union attacks but starvation that caused the Confederate army to surrender.

Ulysses S. Grant statue

Known as the Thayer's Approach, on May 22, 1863 under the command of Brig. Gen. John Thayer Union troops stormed the hill towards Confederate troops. Slowed by the steep terrain and heavy Confederate gunfire, Thayer's men withdrew. On May 30, 1863 they began a trenching operation to reach the Confederate Army.

A tunnel was built by Union troops to provide safe passage under the exposed ridge from Confederate sharpshooters high up on the hill. Union soldiers were able to inch closer to Confederate troops by digging zigzag trenches. This helped to nullify the effects of Confederate gunfire.

Unlike wooden sailing vessels used at the start of the civil war, the new ironclads had steam driven engines, armour plating, 13 cannons, and a top speed of 9 mph. The Cairo (pronounced Care-o) steamed up the Yazoo River. On December 12, 1862 two quick explosions tore holes in the bottom of ironclad causing it to sink in minutes. Preserved by mud and silt the Cairo sat on the bottom of the river for 102 years before it was raised in 1964.

Elvis Has Left The Building

Susan and I both had grown up listening to Elvis Presley music. We talked about how we would catch an Elvis Presley movie on Sunday afternoons. So, when she found out we were staying footsteps away from Elvis's birthplace, there was no holding her back. Two days leading up to the sightseeing adventure she sang every Elvis song she knew and then some.

We all know about Graceland but Tupelo, MS is where it all started. Elvis Aaron Presley was born January 8, 1935 to Vernon and Gladys Presley. Elvis had an identical twin brother named Jessie Garon Presley, unfortunately Jessie was stillborn. 

A year earlier in 1934, Vernon borrowed $180 for materials to build a two room house. The house was built by Elvis's father, grandfather, and uncle. It stands today in the same location as it did when Elvis lived in it.

Times were tough financially on Vernon and Gladys. After 3 years of living in the house it was repossessed for failure to make payments. The inside has changed since the Presley family occupied it mainly due to other occupants since the Presley's. The wood floors and the mantle are the only original inside pieces.

The Presley family regularly attended the Assembly of God Church. This is where Elvis was first exposed to gospel music which influenced his musical style throughout his career. The Pentecostal Church was originally a block away but moved to the present location in 2008 and restored to its original condition.

In 1945 Elvis at the age of 10, made his first public radio broadcast. Standing on a chair in a youth talent contest at the Tupelo Fairgrounds he sang "Old Shep".

In 1946, Elvis and his mother walked to the Tupelo Hardware Store where Elvis wanted to purchase a .22 caliber rifle. Gladys being a very protective mother convinced Elvis to purchase a guitar instead. And the rest is history.

 

The hardware store remains the same inside with its wood shelving and stamped metal ceiling. Only the merchandise has changed. As the story goes X marks the spot on the floor where Elvis stood to purchase his first guitar. Susan is standing in that exact spot. How nostalgic!

In 1948, when Elvis was 13 years old he moved away from Tupelo . Elvis returned nine years later to perform a benefit concert at the Fairgrounds where it all started. A life size statue now stands in Fairpark where Elvis performed his concert.

Actual picture taken from the concert

A trip to Elvis Presley's Birthplace is not complete without a stop at the museum. The museum is mainly a personal collection of Janelle McComb, a long time friend of Elvis and the Presley family. Unfortunately, pictures are not allowed to be taken in the museum.

While in Tupelo we stayed at the Campground at Barnes Crossing which was so conveniently close to everything. This campground offered all the amenities W/S/E 30&50 amp service along with cable. Mr Jim greeted us with a wonderful Mississippi greeting and escorted us to our site. Thank goodness. Nice campground but challenging. You're basically driving up and down to get to your tiered site.

Walking around the park gave me a great workout. As I was lollygagging I stumbled across some horses in the pasture next to the campground. Being curious I walked over and when they turned around to see me I was very pleasantly surprised. Check it out.

Check out the markings and the blue eyes

Natchez Trace Parkway

It's funny how some of the things that are not planned turn out to be the greatest. Susan and I were sitting on the couch getting ready to leave Nashville when I get a text asking us where are we. Of course I text back saying we are in Cave City getting ready to move on to Nashville. The next text was where are we staying in Nashville. By the way I had no idea who it was and by now I'm thinking it's a stalker. So I did the intelligent thing (yeah right) and texted back asking "who is this". Low and behold it's are very good friends Nancy & Betsy, who are on their way to Florida. Long story short, we met in Nashville at the campground and the rest is history. We talked, laughed, toured each others new rig, had happy hour together, went for supper, and then talked some more. In the morning they left for Florida and we left to tour the Natchez Trace Parkway. Thanks Nancy and Betsy for a great time.

What is the Natchez Trace Parkway you ask? Today it is a 444 mile paved 2 lane road that leads us through 3 states and stretches from Natchez, MS to just south of Nashville, TN . Originally it was a dirt path used by traders, mail riders, soldiers, outlaws, and Indians. They would traverse this wilderness path in an effort to get home, explore an area, or try to reach a new growing population in the southwest. Only small portions of the original Trace remain.

Before we started our adventure on the Trace we stopped at the famous Loveless Cafe for a photo op. This motel and cafe has been serving fried chicken and biscuits to weary travellers since 1951. They make between 4,000 & 7,000 biscuits a day and have been featured on Ellen DeGeneres, The Today Show, and Late Night with Conan O'Brien. To bad we just ate breakfast.

One of the most awesome features of the Trace is the Double-Arched Bridge at MM 438. The bridge which was completed in 1994 rises 155 feet above Birdsong Hollow and spans 1,648 feet.

Travelling along the Trace is very relaxing. No commercial vehicles are allowed and speed limits are between 40-50 mph. Points of interest are marked well in advance using the mile marker system.

A short distance off the Trace was a 180 degree view of Water Valley. We were just short of seeing the beautiful fall colours.

One of the few remaining building left on the old Natchez Trace is the Gordon House which was built between 1817-1818. John Gordon, husband and father of 11 children owned the house and was the operator of a ferry that crossed the Duck River. Large bridges were not practical in the wilderness. Fording the river could only be done during the dry season so a ferry was the best solution. The Duck River ferry remained in service for over 90 years until a bridge was built in 1896.

Along the entire Trace there are areas to picnic, hike, and just take in the shear beauty. Jackson Falls was all of these. We had to descend a steep 900 ft long trail but the reward was worth it.

A tobacco barn stands at MM 401 representing a typical tobacco farm during the 1900's. Burley tobacco must be air-cured in a barn for 4 to 6 weeks before it is ready for market. Burley is a light-brown aromatic tobacco used mainly for cigarettes. A small amount is used for pipe and chewing tobacco. I couldn't stay in the barn very long mainly due to the humidity.

There are several sections along the Natchez where one can walk along the old dirt Trace. One such 2000 foot section follows a ridge 300 feet above the Duck River. Let your imagine wonder...can you see traders and troops walking these trails back in the day. It was a little eerie.

Our last stop of the day was at the Meriweather Lewis Monument. The state of Tennessee erected a monument over Lewis's grave in 1848. Lewis's life ended in October 1809 at the age of 35. He was best known for being part of the Lewis and Clark Expedition whose primary purpose was to find and map an all-water route to the Pacific Ocean. After 8,000 miles by boat, horseback, and on foot they returned to St Louis in 1806 without ever finding the all-water route.

After 60 miles of the Trace we had enough for one day. As interesting as it was it can get a little tiresome.