Black Hills, South Dakota - Part 2

The history of the Needles Highway is intertwined with the former South Dakota Governor Peter Norbeck. In the early 1920s, Norbeck planned the route now known as Needles Highway by traversing the area on foot and horseback. The purpose was to bring visitors into close contact with the Black Hills' most spectacular scenery. 

Completed in 1922 and considered a feat of engineering genius, Needles Highway or SD Hwy 87 is a 14-mile road that winds through pine forests, passes by the beautiful Sylvan Lake, traverses narrow tunnels carved from solid rock, and displays a skyline of granite spires . The most notable granite spire is the Needle's Eye, a rock formation with a wind-carved opening.

Needles Eye Tunnel - I had to pull my truck mirrors in

Needles Eye

At the end of Needles Hwy lies beautiful Sylvan Lake, the crown jewel of South Dakota's Custer State Park. This man-made lake was intentionally created when Theodore Reder built a dam across Sunday Gulch Creek in 1881. Consequently, the dam created a 17 acre lake. Today the lake and surrounding area offers breathtaking views of its granite formations and Ponderosa pine forests. Popular for hiking, swimming, and picnicking, it serves as a major starting point for trails leading to Black Elk Peak formerly Harney Peak.

The dam

Nothing tops of the day but seeing Texas Longhorns in a pasture chowing down on sweet prairie grass. 

Black Hills, South Dakota - Part 1

Custer State Park is a premier natural treasure in South Dakota, celebrated for its vast landscapes, abundant wildlife, and rich history. Encompassing 71,000 acres of the Black Hills, the park showcases a stunning and diverse ecosystem, from rugged granite mountains and serene forests to rolling prairie grasslands. Custer State Park officially opened on July 1, 1919, transformed from the former Custer State Forest into South Dakota's first state park.  

I booked seven nights at Legion Lake Campground almost a year prior to arrival. It's a popular destination within Custer State Park offering a serene natural setting and a resort-style experience with cabins, a restaurant, a store, and of course a campground. The lake itself provided great opportunities for water activities and supports fishing. The trail around the lake was the go to hike each morning with the dogs. 

Our campsite with Legion Lake in the background

Legion Lake

Legion Lake Lodge

Our nightly visitor at our campsite

One of the favorites of the park is the Wildlife Loop Road, an 18-mile drive that traverses the park's prairie grasslands and forested hills, offering great opportunities for spotting free roaming bison. These massive animals are often seen grazing near the road causing a "Buffalo Jam" when they venture across the pavement. In addition to the bison I was fortunate enough to spot white tailed deer,  mule deer, pronghorns, burros, wild turkey and of course prairie dogs.

Begging Burros

Male Pronghorn

Mama & calf

Female Bighorn Sheep

Pikes Peak SP & Effigy Mounds National Monument - McGregor Iowa

  

Atop a 500 foot bluff (1,130 foot elevation) is a breathtaking view and the confluence of the Wisconsin and Mississippi rivers. Pikes Peak SP is named after Lieutenant Zebulon Pike, whom was sent by the government in 1805 to select a site for a military fort. Pike chose this site but the government built the fort across the river. Pikes Peak officially became a state park in 1936.

A half-mile wooden boardwalk guides one down to Bridal Veil Falls. On the way to the fall, there is a Bear Mound on the left side. This effigy was built by ancient American Indians of the Woodland Culture, who inhabited the area from 800-1200 A.D. There are 63 mounds in the park, most of them conical or linear in shape. More on this later

Our campsite with W/E/S

Confluence of the Mississippi and Wisconsin Rivers

Bridal Veil Falls

Effigy Mounds National Monument was established as a National Monument in October 1949. Located at the park entrance, the visitors center contains museum exhibits and a book store. The park has 14 miles of hiking trails. There are no paved public access roads in the park.

Effigy Mounds National Monument contains 206 known prehistoric mounds of which 31 are in the form of animal effigies. Others include conical, linear, or compound mounds. Dome shaped conical mounds were built by the Woodland Indians about 2,500 years ago. By 1,400 years ago in the Late Woodland period area Indians built effigy mounds for possibly religious reasons or clan symbols. Around 850 years ago the building of effigy mounds ceased maybe due to the transitioning into larger permanent villages.

Three conical mounds

Bear Mound located in Pikes Peak SP

Indiana Dunes National & State Park, Chesterton Indiana

Visited: 1 - 3 October 2024

Nights Stayed: 2 nights

We left home on route to Amana, Iowa but our first stop was Indiana, an area known for it's 45 miles of pristine shoreline along Lake Michigan. Also well known in the area is Indiana Dunes State Park (which is where we are camping) and Indiana Dunes National Park.

Firstly, Indiana Dunes State Park is surrounded by Indiana Dunes National Park. The state park consists of over 2,100 acres of beautiful pristine and historic landscape. In the early 1900 the area was recognized for its potential thereby being established as a state park in 1925. Large sand dunes located beyond the shoreline have taken thousands for years to form.

The state park which is open year round has a campground with 140 campsites offering both primitive or sites with power. The visitors center has natural and historic displays, an area for observing birds and other critters. The park also offers more than 16 miles of hiking and biking trails.

Our campsite #36

Visitors Center

Large sand dunes

Beautiful Lake Michigan

Beautiful Lake Michigan sunsets

Indiana Dunes National Park, a federally administered park consists of over 15,170 acres and spans across 15 miles of Lake Michigan shoreline. The NP is located about 50 miles southeast of Chicago. It was established as a national lakeshore in 1966 but renamed as a national park in 2019.

The NP campground consists of 66 unserviced campsites and modern restrooms with hot and cold showers. It is open from 1 April to 1 November and closed during winter months. With over 50 miles of trails there is an opportunity to explore this ever changing landscape. In many area the huge living or moving dunes are slowly being blown inland burying the forests as they go.

Mount Baldy Beach Trail

Hike Time: .75 miles, 75 feet of elevation gain, about 1 hour

Mount Baldy is 126 feet above the water level of Lake Michigan and is moving inland at a rate of between 4-7 feet per year. The beach sand on the dunes moves when the prevailing northwest wind exceeds 11 km per hour. Because there is no sand collecting on the waters edge this worsens the movement of Mount Baldy. Beach erosion takes away more sand from Mount Baldy than the waves are bringing in. Much of this is caused due to the breakwall built for Michigan City Harbour. The Army Corp of Engineers began feeding the beach in 1974 to try and correct the effects of the breakwall.

Aerial View of Mount Baldy courtesy of NPS

The Mount Baldy Trail Hike in an out and back trail considered to be a moderately challenging route. The trail features a staircase at the start and sweeping views of Lake Michigan near the end. Walking down to the beach on loose sand was a test but coming back up was where the challenge was.

Bailly Homestead, Chellberg Farm, and Cemetery Trail Loop

Hike time:1.6 miles, 2.5 kms 1.5 hours

The Chellberg Farm was established by Anders and Johanna Chellberg whom moved from Sweden to this area in 1863. In 1869 they purchased 40 acres of land thereby creating the homestead. In 1874 an additional 40 acres was added. The brick farmhouse was built in 1885 after the wood framed house was destroyed by fire 1884. They were the first of 3 generations to live on this land. 

Continuing along the trail we found the Bailly Homestead which was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1962. This was the home of French Canadian fur trader Joseph Bailly from 1774-1835 who was one of the earliest settlers in northern Indiana. Bailly was an independent fur-trader who's business spread from Montreal to Louisiana. 

The Bailly Cemetery is located 3/4 miles away from the homestead on the edge of a sandy ridge. In 1827 Joseph Bailly chose this area for the resting place of his young son. The entire Bailly family is interred in this cemetery.

A Century of Progress - 1933 World's Fair Homes

I bet you are wondering what Indiana Dunes National Park and the 1933 World's Fair has in common...well let me tell you the story. In 1933 the World's Fair which was held in Chicago was called the Century of Progress. It was meant to offer people who were in midst of the Great Depression hope through futuristic changes. The houses were built in such a way they demonstrated modern architectural design, experimental materials, and new technologies such as central air conditioning and dishwashers. In 1935 real estate developer Robert Bartlett bought 5 homes from the homes and industrial arts exhibit at the world's fair. Four of these homes were transported via barge to their new location across Lake Michigan to Beverly Shores, a resort community he was developing. The fifth house was dismantled, trucked to Beverly Shores where it was reassembled. Today, the structures are leased by Indiana Landmarks from the National Park Service, then subleased to people who have restored them in exchange for long-term leases.

The Florida Tropical House was the only state sponsored Century of Progress home, it was commissioned by the state of Florida to lure tourists to "the Sunshine State". The centerpiece of the house is the two-storey living room with an overhanging balcony. The original residence cost $15,000 to build.

The Armco-Ferro House was manufactured for $4,500 by Insulated Steel Inc for American Rolling Mill Company(ARMCO) and the Ferro Enamel Corporation. This was the first to be constructed using frameless steel construction and an exterior of vitreous enamel. It only took five days to construct the 2,400 square foot from prefabricated panels. This home could be mass produced and also be affordable for an American family.

The Wieboldt-Rostone House showcased an exciting new building material that "never needed repairs". The material composed of limestone, shale, and alkali. However, the lake effects of snow, wind, and rain proved to be to much for the Rostone causing severe deterioration by the 1950's. The Rostone has subsequently been covered with Perma-stone, a popular concrete stucco.

The Cypress Log Cabin was unlike the other ultra-modern homes made of steel, stone, and glass, it showcased cypress logs which are resistance to water and decay. The architect  showed the wood's versatility and durability by incorporating cypress siding, shakes, structural timbers, walls, flooring, and furniture.

The House of Tomorrow's first floor was designed as a service area, originally containing the garage and an airplane hangar. The second and third floors clad in glass contained the main living spaces and a solarium. Because of the floor to ceiling windows the heat loss during the winter months was negated by the solar heat gain reducing the need for mechanical heating. However, the heat gain during the summer months was too great for the air-conditioning and it failed. When Bartlett moved the building he replaced the windows with operating ones to allow air-flow.   

Indiana Dunes State Park and National Park did not disappoint. With the copious trails to hike, the beautiful beach to walk, the numerous historic buildings to explore, and to end the days with gorgeous sunsets to enjoy, we will make this place a regular stop.

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