Natchez Trace Parkway

It's funny how some of the things that are not planned turn out to be the greatest. Susan and I were sitting on the couch getting ready to leave Nashville when I get a text asking us where are we. Of course I text back saying we are in Cave City getting ready to move on to Nashville. The next text was where are we staying in Nashville. By the way I had no idea who it was and by now I'm thinking it's a stalker. So I did the intelligent thing (yeah right) and texted back asking "who is this". Low and behold it's are very good friends Nancy & Betsy, who are on their way to Florida. Long story short, we met in Nashville at the campground and the rest is history. We talked, laughed, toured each others new rig, had happy hour together, went for supper, and then talked some more. In the morning they left for Florida and we left to tour the Natchez Trace Parkway. Thanks Nancy and Betsy for a great time.

What is the Natchez Trace Parkway you ask? Today it is a 444 mile paved 2 lane road that leads us through 3 states and stretches from Natchez, MS to just south of Nashville, TN . Originally it was a dirt path used by traders, mail riders, soldiers, outlaws, and Indians. They would traverse this wilderness path in an effort to get home, explore an area, or try to reach a new growing population in the southwest. Only small portions of the original Trace remain.

Before we started our adventure on the Trace we stopped at the famous Loveless Cafe for a photo op. This motel and cafe has been serving fried chicken and biscuits to weary travellers since 1951. They make between 4,000 & 7,000 biscuits a day and have been featured on Ellen DeGeneres, The Today Show, and Late Night with Conan O'Brien. To bad we just ate breakfast.

One of the most awesome features of the Trace is the Double-Arched Bridge at MM 438. The bridge which was completed in 1994 rises 155 feet above Birdsong Hollow and spans 1,648 feet.

Travelling along the Trace is very relaxing. No commercial vehicles are allowed and speed limits are between 40-50 mph. Points of interest are marked well in advance using the mile marker system.

A short distance off the Trace was a 180 degree view of Water Valley. We were just short of seeing the beautiful fall colours.

One of the few remaining building left on the old Natchez Trace is the Gordon House which was built between 1817-1818. John Gordon, husband and father of 11 children owned the house and was the operator of a ferry that crossed the Duck River. Large bridges were not practical in the wilderness. Fording the river could only be done during the dry season so a ferry was the best solution. The Duck River ferry remained in service for over 90 years until a bridge was built in 1896.

Along the entire Trace there are areas to picnic, hike, and just take in the shear beauty. Jackson Falls was all of these. We had to descend a steep 900 ft long trail but the reward was worth it.

A tobacco barn stands at MM 401 representing a typical tobacco farm during the 1900's. Burley tobacco must be air-cured in a barn for 4 to 6 weeks before it is ready for market. Burley is a light-brown aromatic tobacco used mainly for cigarettes. A small amount is used for pipe and chewing tobacco. I couldn't stay in the barn very long mainly due to the humidity.

There are several sections along the Natchez where one can walk along the old dirt Trace. One such 2000 foot section follows a ridge 300 feet above the Duck River. Let your imagine wonder...can you see traders and troops walking these trails back in the day. It was a little eerie.

Our last stop of the day was at the Meriweather Lewis Monument. The state of Tennessee erected a monument over Lewis's grave in 1848. Lewis's life ended in October 1809 at the age of 35. He was best known for being part of the Lewis and Clark Expedition whose primary purpose was to find and map an all-water route to the Pacific Ocean. After 8,000 miles by boat, horseback, and on foot they returned to St Louis in 1806 without ever finding the all-water route.

After 60 miles of the Trace we had enough for one day. As interesting as it was it can get a little tiresome.