Day 18, 19 & 20 - Percé, Quebec

Length of Stay: 4 nights

Visited: 29 August - 2 September 2023

I booked our campsite months ago so as to wake in the morning with a view of Percé Rock. Isn't that why we are here...one of the reasons. Let the adventure begin. But first, you just don't know what will happen on these extended trips so you always pack for the unexpected...so I thought. Brownie, our oldest( almost 13) woke all of us up screaming bloody murder. I forgot his just in case pain medication. No vet in this part of the woods. Anyway after 24 hours he seems to be doing somewhat better...lets hope.

Percé is a small town in the Gaspe Peninsula. Depending from which way you come you drop down into a quaint but old coastal town at sea level. There are just over 3,000 permanent residents. During the summer months the streets are crowded with tourists here to seek a glimpse of Percé Rock. This iconic behemoth stands 88 m tall(288') and 471 m long (1545'). Due to the wind and sea Percé Rock is forever changing. Percé is made of limestone that gathered at the bottom of the sea 375 million years ago. At one point in time Percé Rock had more than one arch. The second arch gave way 17 June 1845 that is how the rock comes to look like it does today.

We walked to the top of Mount Joli for another breathtaking view of Percé Rock. Approximately 410 million years ago Percé Rock was attached to Mont Joli. 

Cape Blanc Lighthouse

Another major attraction to the area is Bonaventure Island which is located about 3km of the coast of Percé. It has the most accessible view of Northern Gannets then anywhere in the world. In 1971 the island became the property of the Quebec government.

We toured the Discovery Center in downtown Percé to get a better understanding of how the town came to be and the relevance of cod fishing to the area.

The downtown Quai or dock is where you get a boat to Bonaventure Island or whale watching tours. Before leaving town I bought my ticket for Friday to explore Bonaventure Island. Can't wait.

Coming from the west about 7 kms from Percé it is a series of twists and turns ending in an elevation drop(18% grade) into the town. The views are breathtaking.

Day 17 - URA

Last night was an amazing adventure, today is another. Our journey starts again in Chandler on the coast of Bourg de Pabos. This time the voice of Lamia, a Basque goddess guides us along a seaside trail giving us the keys to eight fascinating stations. Inside each of these stations you experience water in a way you have never seen before. URA means the celebration of water. This trail can be walked during the daylight or night time. The experience is available in French, English and Mi'kmaq. 

The first station, we were transported to the height of the high autumn tide.

While the first station was all about fall storms, the second station is calming and immerses one into a Mi'gmaq water purification ritual.

The next stations takes one into storms, pirates and battles in the Atlantic.

As we walked the trail each experience got more and more  interesting finally culminating to where Lumina reveals herself at the last station.

The entire experience lasted about an hour with a 1 km walk along the seaside. The trail is much easier to navigate than the one last night. Oh, and were you waiting for a picture of Lumina...well you have to wait a little longer.

Day 16 - Nova Lumina

Nova Lumina is located in Chandler above the old train bridge at the mouth of the Grand Pabos River. It is a 1.5 km mythical night walk where, for unknown reasons the stars are falling from the sky. The trail meanders through the forest where one is transported to a place where the sky meets the sea. Let your imagination wonder.

As you're adventure begin you're mission as a pilgrim is to carry the light of a fallen star(a walking stick) and return it to the sky.

At the sound of a celestial song, your star(the walking stick) is awakened to reveal its own stories. Through a magic portal that opens before your eyes, witness a journey in time at the speed of starlight. Your star's memories appear, visions of all it has seen since its birth. (Make sure your computer/phone volume is on)

As waves of light that shine from far off galaxies the light from these stars take years to reach the earth.

The open sky signals the pilgrims final steps. Your star is revived by all it has remembered and revealed, it is ready to return home to the sky where it will brighten the night for eons to come. May you always remember to look to the sky.

The self guided walk took us about 60 minutes and you do so at your own pace. Because it soooo dark we found a couple of times we really didn't know which way to go. The ground was uneven almost hazardous with rocks and roots sticking out. All in all it was entertaining and a fun night out.

Remember to always look to the sky

Day 15 - Chandler, Quebec

Length of Stay: 3 nights

Visited: 26-29 August 2023

Chandler is located on the eastern side of the Gaspesie Peninsula in the Gulf of St Lawrence. It is the second most populated town on the peninsula after Gaspe. The town has a long history dating back to 1729 when it was first settled. Chandlers main industry was fishing and lumber, today it is tourism and some fishing. The historic heritage of Chandler can be seen as one strolls the outside displays known as founders' walk, an attraction that showcases the dynamics of the town.

We stayed at Camping du Bourg de Pabos which is central to everything I wanted to see and do. After setting up the rig I went exploring on my bike to get the lay of the land. 

The area is incredibly beautiful with it's red rich sand and clear blue water. I sat on a rock just taking in the view and salt air. 

Despite public pressure, election promises, and government investments it took over 40 years to build the 202 mile railway from Matapedia to Gaspe. It finally arrived in 1910. In 1914 the train station was built and by 1929 the Canadian National Railway was formed. Freight traffic diminish between 1990 and early 2000's due to local industry closures. In 2011 VIA Rail passenger service was suspended due to poor rail conditions. The tracks are currently being repaired sections at a time with rail service to resume in 2014/15.

After exploring most of the town I call it a day, but not before I hang on the beach for an hour or so. The weather has been great so far lets hope it holds out.

Day 14 - Battle of the Restigouche NHS

The Battle of the Restigouche was a naval battle fought in 1760 between the British and the French with help from the Acadians and Mi'kmaq. Prior to this battle Quebec City had fallen to the British on September 18, 1759 on the Plains of Abraham. However, the French were still present in New France. Several appeals to France for supplies and reinforcements went unnoticed or neglected.

On April 10 1760 the frigate Le Machault set sail along with five merchant ships carrying provisions and troops from Bordeaux. Finding that Quebec City had already fallen to the British, the French fleet sailed for Chaleur Bay taking shelter in the estuaries of the Restigouche River.

The British sailed from Louisburg arriving June 22 1760 at Chaleur Bay. They blockaded the river causing the French to move further upriver. The Le Machault scuttled some schooners as a barrier and turned broadside. The British were able to move around the sunken ships and confronted the French on July 3 1760.

On July 8 1760, after several days of battle the French commander gave the order to abandon ship and scuttle the Machault. The frigate sank ending the final naval engagement between France and Great Britain to take place in North American waters.

Blue is French & Red is British

After 200 years of being underwater archeologists were able to recover over 7,000 pieces of artifacts from the Machault between the summers of 1969 and 1972. Some of the hull pieces were well preserved and consequently recovered because of the muddy waters they were in.

The Stem

The orange represent the recovered part of the Machault in lower pics

A wool stocking, wool hat, leather shoe, & wool mitten 

Deadeyes & a cleat

Brass & copper pots with brass colander

Chinese porcelain

Oak barrel with salted pork contents dated 1760

Shoes

French 12 lb, 6 lb & 4 lb cast iron cannonballs marked with the fleur de lys

For a small museum it was extremely well laid out and very informative. We spent about 1-1/2 hours reading and touring around. Excellent Canadian history.

The red chairs are overlooking the Restigouche River where the battle occurred