Day 13

When planning a 5 week vacation on the road I have to insert some down days. Today is one of those. Day 13 is all about R & R. As I watched the sun come up( 5:23 am) while drinking my coffee and I knew it was going to be a beautiful sunny warm day with not a cloud in the sky. So I decided right then and there it was to be a day of to reading, going for walks on the beach, eating(of course), and just plain lounging around ... outside. The dogs got to walk on the beach for one of the first times and they really didn't much like it. Oh well!

No pictures today, I didn't even take it out of the case.

Day 11 & 12 - Carleton-sur-Mer

Waking up at 5 am, having a cup of coffee all while watching the sun come up is not hard to take. This was taken from the step of our 5th wheel.

On Tuesday we decided to take Rue de la Montagne which leads from town to the summit of Mont Saint Joseph. The climb is from sea level to an altitude of 555 m (1821 feet). The grade is from 13% to 35%. And yes while going up and then later coming down our ears popped several times. At the top admission is $10 per person which will give you access to breathtaking views and the church. A boardwalk with a series of interpretive panels highlights the history and geography of the area. I have labelled the picture below to give an idea of where we were.

Humans have always been fascinated with mountains, they represent a challenge and create the feeling of being closer to the "Great Creator". So at this point a disclaimer is needed. I minored in Anthropology in university and my belief is in the evolution of man. So, that being said here is the story of Mont Saint Joseph. In the bible, mountains have always been a place where people go to worship God. Eager to be nearer to God people of Carleton-sur-Mer started climbing Mont Saint Joseph since the early 19th century. In 1935, a small chapel was built on top of the mountain.

You can rent small domes or chalet style facilities to pray, hike, or bike some of the trails leading in and around Mont Saint Joseph.

On Wednesday we drove up the coast, yes in the direction we are heading on Saturday. However, it is a little hard to pull off in little road side parks or scenic outlooks with a fifth wheels. So away we go, it's a beautiful day, the sun is shining, and there are sights to be seen. The first stop was a very small roadside pull-off with breathtaking views of the water and mountains.

The next town we stopped at was New Richmond. My French is not great but I can finally pronounce this place. The town has multicultural roots in Mi'gmaq, Acadian, English, Scottish, and Irish. I was amazed at Taylor's Point Park which is where we pulled off. For a small town this park has everything kayaks, canoes, and electric bike rentals, plus a paved bike trail, several hiking trails, and picnic areas. 

Somewhere out there is a bald eagle flying around...I did not have my large lens so you have to take my word for it. The tide is out, all the birds and the eagle are fishing for crab, mussels, and fish.

Our last stop before we turned around was Bonaventure, a place rich in Acadian history. We opted to bypass the museum since we have been to two others. Hugging the coast is a 4 km walkway where one can bike, hike, or in-line skate. 

Yes, I have a fascination with lighthouses if you can't already tell. In 1902 a short wooden lighthouse measuring 10 metres (34 feet) was erected on Pointe Echouerie. Due to the inability of sailors seeing the light when approaching from the east, the lighthouse was moved two kms to Point Bonaventure in the spring of 1907. In 2005 the lighthouse was moved again this time 4.3 kms to the west side on Bonaventure River where it can be accessed by the public. I can never turn down the chance to go up a lighthouse. I climbed two sets of ladders then crawled through a 3x3 foot hole to reach the top and out onto the balcony. What an amazing view.

We have seen some pretty interesting sculptures but this one says it all. You have now arrived at your destination...Plage Beaubassin campground. Got to love it!

Day 10 - Carleton-sur-Mer

Length of Stay: 5 nights
Visited: 21-26 August 2023

The drive to Carleton-sur-Mer campground went pretty much as planned. Left at 10 and got here just after lunch. We stopped a few times for doggy pee breaks and a scenic lookout moment which turned out to be not so scenic.

Carleton-sur-Mer campground is almost totally surrounded by water. On one side you have Chaleur Bay and on the other is the barachois(a shallow lagoon formed by a sand bar). There are a total of 305 sites ranging from dry campsites to sites with all amenities plus an outdoor covered kitchen area. Our site backed up to Chaleur Bay with New Brunswick visible on the other side of the bay. All sites are very spacious with lots of room between your neighbour.

Check in was one of the fastest I've ever encountered. In and out in 3 minutes with map in hand away we go.

Check in office

Washrooms

The lighthouse near the campground is located at Pointe Tragadigache. It is a replica of the original that burnt down in 1970.

Playground for kids

The view from the front of our site is of Mont Saint-Joseph. We are hoping to make the climb up there tomorrow...in the truck of course.

After supper we took a nice walk along the beach, the wind was still quite blustery but it was warm. Susan said I did good in choosing this campsite.

Day 8 & 9 Amqui, Quebec

Length of Stay: 2 nights

Visited: 19-20 August 2023

The drive to Camping Amqui was pretty much unremarkable with the exception of the road being in really really bad shape. I thought I lost the truck and rig in one pothole. Holy Moly!!! We arrived at the campground early checked in and were told we couldn't get onto our site until 2pm. It's now 12:30. We park in the parking lot, get the dogs out and go for a walk. We passed our soon to be site, no one was on it so we asked again if we could check in early. I told them I didn't mind paying an extra fee. No worries they let us on early, no charge. I thanked them and proceeded to our site. We got all setup time to relax. 

This campground is family friendly with lots of things for kids to do. This is just a stopover for us for 2 nights while we restock the fridge, do some laundry, and recharge.

During the night it poured rain and I mean poured. Everything was sooooo wet in the morning. After shopping & laundry the final job was getting diesel. The average price is $1.94 per liter for diesel, that hurts.

Again that night it poured rain this time even harder. I didn't think that was possible. My morning it stopped and the sun came out. We packed up, took the dogs for a walk, and on the road by 10:15.

Day 7 - A Hike With Calusa

Well, I've  decided I'm taking my little girl Calusa for a hike on Le Pic Champlain. This is the only trail dogs are allowed on in all of Bic National Park. The route is depicted in green on the map below. The trail is a 229 metre climb to the top, 6 kms in length and should take us just over 2 hours. I asked Calusa if she was all in...she started wagging her tail so I guess away we go. To get to the trailhead we drove out of the park, went west about 5kms on the 132, then back in the park at a different entrance. It's early so know one was at the gate. Only two vehicles in the parking lot...excellent. This is one of the most popular trails because it allows dogs.

With 2 large jugs of water, my phone(just to be safe), camera, and truck keys away we go. We cross the road and hit the trail which is already a challenge. It's wet and rocky. And Calusa had a poop. I pick it up, go back down the trail a short distance, deposit it in the garbage, then start again.

The trail is tough but we are having fun. New smells for Calusa and new sights for me. 

We reach the top and the view of the Appalachian countryside and the St Lawrence estuary is incredible. After a short rest and taking in the sights we started back down. I am soooo proud of my little girl she did amazing. This trail is a loop, so you can choose which way you want to go. On the way back we are taking a little easier route. It's a service road for park 4x4 vehicles only. It doesn't make it much easier because going down is always harder on my knees. It is very steep not sure how a vehicle can do it.

During the hike up and down Calusa and I only pass 5 people. However, the parking lot is now full and people are parking on the road. After the two of us devour a bag of cheezies and empty our water bottles we head home for lunch.

The rest of the day is spent relaxing and getting things ready to move on tomorrow to new adventures.

Day 6 - A Lighthouse, Submarine, & Hike

Today takes us to Site historique maritime de la Pointe-au-Pere in Rimouski. Our first stop is the Pointe-au-Pere Lighthouse which is a Parks Canada NHS however it is managed by the maritime museum. Along with the lighthouse, there is a submarine, and a pavilion with artifacts and stories of the Empress of Ireland. Since I was on a submarine during my active military days and have visited Halifax's maritime museum we opted for just the lighthouse today.

Even before Pointe-au-Pere's first lighthouse which was built in 1859, several pilots operated from this area offering their services to guide incoming ships. In 1867 the first lighthouse was destroyed by fire consequently a second was built on the same site at a cost of $1600 to $2000. The second was built identical to the first. In 1909, the construction of a more modern third lighthouse rendering the second one obsolete. The lighthouse is 33 meters(108 feet) tall and is built from concrete with eight reinforced concrete buttresses. There is a total of 128 steps which include 2 ladders to reach the top.

In 1975, a fully automated 115 foot fourth lighthouse was erected just east of the third light. In 1976 the jurisdiction over the third transferred from Transport Canada to Parks Canada thereby becoming a National Historic Site. With new GPS and radar systems the skeleton tower was decommissioned in 1988. The view from the top of the lighthouse. Susan opted for the Red Chair below.

We opted not to tour the HMCS Onondaga instead I took some pictures and walked out onto the pier. The Onondaga is a Oberon class submarine built in 1965 in the UK. It was owned by the Canadian Navy and in service for 33 years. During this span it travelled 500,000 nautical miles which is 23 times around the earth. Staff included 68 crew members of these 6 were officers.

After a full morning of sightseeing and a little bit of grocery shopping we headed back to Bic for lunch. After lunch and a little snooze I went for another hike. This trail is the Le Chemin-du-Nord considered an easy out and back 3 km hike. The trail is depicted in red on the map.

The Chemin-du-Nord starts at the Ferme Rioux discovery and visitors center. This is a wide trail composed of fine gravel that follows the coast. The trail is a very popular one due to it's low level of difficulty. Passing by Anse a Wilson people were swimming in the cove...to cold for me.

The shear beauty of this park amazes me. Around every bend and curve it's a wow moment. Wind swept trees from salt water and erosion causes them to die.

In the early 19th century several Englishmen built houses and/or cottages along the shores of Anse a l'Original. The Feindel cottage is one of these houses. The ownership has passed to the park.

The park has a plethora of wild rose bushes

In the 1920's Walter Lyman, a colonel in the Canadian Army acquired 350 acres of land along Cap a l'Original coast. Because of the peace and tranquility they had 5 structures built, a cottage, boat house, stable, sauna, and wood shed all with no electricity or running water.

The view to the east from the Lyman cottage deck...it is breath taking.

Continuing along the very flat trail with tall pines overhead. It's nice because when the sun broke through it was hot.

Reaching the end of this portion of the trail was breathtaking. Large rocky cliffs meet the water can't get any better than that. If you are an experienced hiker you can continue around the Cap-a-l'Original but it has to be started an hour before low tide. The trail is not marked, has steep dangerous cliffs, and rocks to climb over. Nope not for this girl besides it's not low tide. Yeah

Another hike in the books, what a great day. Last day tomorrow at Parc National du Bic, I will have to see what is in store, a bike ride, hike who knows...I will decide in the morning.