Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Grosse Ile Island & Grande Entree Island Part 6


With a population of approximately 500 people, Grosse Ile is the largest English speaking community on the Magdalens. As you enter Grosse Ile there is a towering salt mine on the right. Owned by Seleine Mines it produces road salt for Quebec, Atlantic Canada, and eastern United States.
Salt Mine
Salt mine operation began in 1982 and extracts 1.5 million tons of salt per year and employees 200 people. Salt is extracted from below Grande-Entrée lagoon. The mine is 300 meters deep and encompasses 1.6 km.
Grande Entrée Lagoon with salt mine in background
In 1993 Grosse Ile created its own fisherman’s coop with the goal to create jobs and increase lobster prices.
Cape Dauphin harbor
Two very friendly fisherman
Looking out from the Cape Dauphin harbour you can’t help to notice the beautiful beach of Plage de la Pointe de l’Est.
Plage de la Pointe de l'Est
The National Wildlife Reserve of East Point further down the road is the sole ecosystem of its kind in Quebec. It encompasses an area of 684 hectares with 4.5 km of walking trail.
Stunted trees line the dunes
Sand, sand, and more sand dunes
Louise, Danielle, and myself walking through the reserve
After walking and sitting on the beach we decided to go for lunch. Again we all ordered seafood and again we were not disappointed.
Time to eat
We had delicious seafood chowder
Yes Fern those are mussels
Grande Entrée Island was the last island to be settled dating back to 1870’s. Today its Quebec’s lobster capital with over 100 lobster fishing boats in the harbour.
Some of the many lobster boats
Typical looking lobster boat
How better to celebrate the end of lobster season but with lobster fest in the lobster capital.
Lobster sold for $8.00 each at the lobster fest
Bringing their fishing boat to lobster fest
Its party time
During the last few days we were on the Magdalens, I wanted to go to Brion Island and Bird Rock. Unfortunately even though it was clear blue sky, the wind picked so they cancelled all trips. Safety first. However, not all a bust. I went on a zodiac trip to see some seals basking in the sun.
Seals on the beach basking in the sun
The large male seal in front is watching over his girls
Susan and I cannot say enough great things about these islands. We could have easily stayed for a month. Would we come back, absolutely? Did we want leave, no? All good things must come to an end. Good-bye Ile de la Madeleine hello Prince Edward Island. See ya then.

Monday, July 15, 2013

Havre aux Maisons & Pointe aux Loups Islands Part 5


As we cross the newly constructed bridge we leave Cap aux Meules and enter what I think is the prettiest island Havre aux Maisons Island. La Pointe is located just across the bridge and consists of a marina. Blue mussels are harvested in the lagoon adjacent to the wharves.
La Pointe Marina
Behind the narrow channel is Paquet Island or Pig Island called appropriately because pigs were raise there. Pigs can’t swim so what better place than a small island.
Paquet Island in foreground

Also in the lagoon is Rouge Island home to a large colony of birds namely cormorants and gulls.
Rouge Island

In the background is Chez Mounette Hill with its winding roads, beautiful multicoloured houses, and seaside cliffs.
Chez Mounette Hill
Seaside coastline

As we continued our travels around the island a very nice surprise was Le Barbochex. It’s a winery that makes port style wines and berry liquors all from local products. The strawberries were being picked as we drove in. How fresh is that?
Strawberries at the side of the winery


We walked away with 4 different bottles wine/port because we couldn’t decide which we liked better. Later when we tried the Bagosse again we decided we rather enjoyed the cranberry dandelion one. Soooooo we had to go back for more of course.
The Bagosse was so good
One of the things I liked about this island was the numerous artisan establishments including the one we were just at. Another is a local cheese factory (Fromagerie du Pied-de-Vent) that has produced raw milk cheeses since 1998. The cattle feed only on hay grasses available on the Magdalen Islands causing a unique taste to their cheese.
We sampled all the cheeses
We could see the Canadian Cattle grazing in the fields near the cheese factory. Why this breed? We were told that this breed is known for its hardiness and resistance to disease. Also the breed produces a higher protein and fat content in their milk ensuring a good cheese yield.
Canadian Cows grazing
The small fishing port of Pointe-Basse was an important location for smoked herring. Today, the Fumoir d’Antan brings back the past which their traditional smoke houses. I tried the smoked herring but didn’t really care for it.
Smoke Houses


Smoked Herring

Standing above the cliffs and overlooking Plaisance Bay is Albright Cape Lighthouse with the outline of Entry Island in the background.
Albright Cape Lighthouse

Contrast between red and gray stone
Lunch was already decided before we left the campground pizza at Pizza d’ la Pointe. It’s a small quaint place just across the bridge that someone from the group seen on TV. Someone say pizza I’m all in.

Pizza d' la Pointe
Susan and I ordered the seafood pizza. It was to die for.
Giddy with anticipation


Check out the shrimp, scallops, & chunks of lobster
If you have room for dessert next door is a place that serves the best chocolate chunk cookies. OMG they were so good. Sorry no pictures devoured them too fast but here’s a picture of the place.
The best cookies
With full bellies onward to some of the most beautiful scenery and beaches we have seen so far. As we walked the beach we were able to explore the caves and furrows created by the wind and surf.
All you need is palm trees

People using the caves for shelter from the sun


The size of the cliffs and caves are huge

Continuing down the highway you reach the tiniest inhabited island called Pointe aux Loupe Island. With its 50 houses and endless beaches you can walk for hours and not see anyone. People have a tendency to make their homes along the dunes. Whether it’s legal or not there was an abundance of them. Cheap living.
The village of Pointe aux Loups in the background

Numerous trailers seen on the dunes
When water is trapped between two parallel dunes a lagoon is created. The lagoon in turn is connected to the sea by a narrow channel. These warm, shallow, calm waters provide a safe environment for windsurfers.
Windsurfer enjoying the beautiful day
Near the end of the island is a rather old abandoned structure. This windmill was an experiment that didn’t get off the ground therefore abandoned and left as an eye sore.
Broken down windmill

Friday, July 12, 2013

Entry Island Part 4


Another island I explored was Entry Island. This small inhabited predominately English speaking island is the only inhabited island not connected to the archipelago. Accessibility is by ferry boat in the summer and plane in the winter.
Entry Island
On a beautiful hot day I decided to embark on a zodiac boat tour of Entry Island. The tour was conducted through Excursion en mer. I booked my tour through Carol who spoke very little English. Captain Michel was at the helm.
Carol
Captain Mike
Zodiac with passengers exploring Entry Island
First we toured around the island again seeing how the wind and sea has caused an enormous amount of erosion.
We explored several caves around the island
Numerous birds make their home on the cliffs
A Black-legged Kittiwake colony the white is bird poo
The small treeless island consists of lush green pasture and rolling hills. Cattle graze along the cliffs and they say they lose one cow every four years. Not bad odds considering.
Cattle grazing
A Double-crested Cormorant colony
The lighthouse stands warning sailors of dangerous waters
With approximately 200 inhabitants on the island the individuals consists mainly of Scottish and Irish descendants. The main economic activity of the islanders is fishing.
The main reason for people to visit the island is climb Big Hill. Big Hill is the highest point in the archipelago at 174 m or 570 feet.
Big Hill note the path straight up the middle
The only fence keeping cows on one side and people on the other
The view is breathtaking from the top
I have to admit the walk up the hill was tough but well worth the pain. It didn't help I was carrying 20 extra pounds of photography gear. It was just as tough coming down, you had to watch your footing all the way.