Part 2 - Nike Missile Site HM-69 Everglades NP

 "It is insane that two men, sitting on the opposite sides of the world, should be able to decide to bring an end to civilization."

-John F. Kennedy, 27 October 1962

At the height of the Cold War, a United States spy plane photographed a Soviet missile site in Cuba on 14 October 1962. President John F Kennedy was informed of these missiles, which had the capability of delivering nuclear warheads to major US cities possibly killing millions. At the time United States was poised only to defend an attack over the North Pole by the Soviet Union. The Cuban Missile Crisis revealed south Florida as an "Achilles heel".

In response the US Army Corps of Engineers chose to build an anti-missile site called HM-69 within Everglades National Park 160 miles from the Cuban coast. The area contained 22 buildings including 3 missile barns, a missile assembly building, a guard dog kennel, and barracks. The command centre was one mile away from this site.

Photo Courtesy of NPS

The US Army's 2nd Missile Battalion, 52nd Air defense Artillery had the daunting task of maintaining the 41 foot Nike Hercules missiles in constant readiness. Some missiles were equipped with nuclear warheads ranging up to 40 kilotons which was 3X the power of the Hiroshima bomb.

Photo courtesy of NPS

Sign posted at entrance gate to Nike Missile Site

Today the site remains virtually the same as when it was decommissioned in 1979. Barn C is now a museum with an original Nike Hercules Missile and tons of information on the missiles and the Cuban Missile Crisis.

Nike Hercules Missile

Part of the Remaining Dog Kennels

Touring the now HM-69 missile site museum was quite an experience. I was pretty young when the Cuban Missile Crisis started and frankly knew nothing about it until high school. At the time life just carried on. The Beatles released their first single "Love Me Do", the Yankees beat the Giants in the World Series, and Sean Connery starred in the first James Bond movie "Dr No". I'm sure we remember at least one of these events if not all. But do we remember when the world or life as we have come to know it almost came to an end. Something to think about.

A very special thanks to my friend Rick M in Florida who was stationed at HM-69 during these days of uncertainty. Thank you for your service.

Part 1 - Everglades National Park, Florida

Visited: 7 - 12 January 2024

Nights Stayed: 5 nights

Known as "the river of grass", the everglades is home to 450,000 acres of mangroves and the largest continuous seagrass meadow on earth. When people think of the Everglades usually it's birds, alligators, snakes, and water. When I think of the park I think of an abundance of trails to explore, wide open spaces that are endless, and reptiles & animals galore. The park did not disappoint.

Everglades National Park is the third largest park in the continental United States only beaten by Death Valley and Yellowstone. It covers over 1.5 million acres or 2,350 sq miles. The elevation ranges from 0 to 8 feet (2.4 m) above sea level. The Florida Peninsula is thought to have appeared above sea level about 100,000 to 150,000 years ago. 

It is thought that humans first inhabited the area 10,000 to 20,000 years ago. The Tequesta tribe developed the eastern side while the Calusa (whom my dog was named after) inhabited the western side.

The Everglades was established as a National Park  in 1947. UNESCO listed it as an International Biosphere Reserve in 1976. In 1979 it was also listed as a World Heritage Site.

On average one million people visit Everglades NP each year. However, road access is limited to only four areas of the park. They include Shark Valley, Gulf Coast, Royal Palm, and Flamingo. The last is where we spent 5 glorious nights camping. FYI contrary to what many believe, we did not see a python around every corner, as a matter of fact we did not see one at all. 

Below is a map of Everglades National Park outlined in red. The only road leading to Flamingo is in orange and the star is where we camped for 5 nights.

Entrance gate to Everglades National Park

Flamingo Area - Everglades National Park

Flamingo Campground

There are basically two seasons in the everglades, the wet season and the dry season also known as tourist season. Most tourist visit the everglades between November and April of each year. This campground is usually booked solid a year in advance. We had a 30 amp electric site. Water fill-up is at the bath houses along with a dump station. The dry season gives way to the wet time of year. This sees a drop in visitation namely due to hot humid weather, supersized mosquitoes, and a constant threat of severe thunderstorms. Also the campground is closed during these months.

Our site

The first place I checked out was the Guy Bradley Visitors Center which is located near the campground but a 38 miles drive, bike, or walk from the entrance to Everglades National Park. It consists of two buildings joined by an above ground walkway and viewing area. This is a great place to start your adventures, the marina is close by, trails start from here, and several ranger lead programs are held in the visitors center or close by. 

Guy Bradley Visitors Center in Flamingo

For those who choose not to camp, the newly constructed Flamingo Lodge provides nightly accommodations that overlook the bay. The newly opened Flamingo restaurant which is adjacent to the lodge is open for breakfast, lunch, and supper. A bar service is also available.  

Flamingo Lodge

Flamingo Restaurant

The wildlife is amazing in Everglades National Park even though the weather wasn't great while we were there. It's suppose to be the dry season we received rain each day. So much so they closed the Bayside campground. I found this osprey and black vulture duelling it out along bayside.

Another accommodation choice are the elevated glamping eco-tents. Each has a partial view of the bay with either a queen or two single beds.

Glamping Eco-tents

View of Bay 

This coastal prairie is the result of numerous hurricanes storm surges that have swept across Everglades National Park. The water smothers the tree roots with a sediment that kills the mangroves. The damage promotes new plant and animal life where perching birds, snakes, lizards, and field mice thrive.

Coastal Prairie

The marina is the hub for all things water related from house boat rentals to boat tours. A marina store provides a variety of snacks, camping needs, souvenirs, and gasoline for your boat. Its also a great place to see crocodiles...yes not alligators but crocodiles. This is salt water a place alligators prefer not to go. I was lucky enough to see two.

Flamingo Marina

This crocodile is easy to identify due to his deformed jaw

Crocodile sunning himself of the boat ramp