Ocracoke Island

I am always looking for new adventures. So when making winter plans I included Cape Hatteras NS and Ocracoke Island as part of our travels. Part of this adventure requires taking a 1 hour ferry ride from Hatteras to Ocracoke Island for our 2 night stay in the Orcacoke Campground where there are no hookups.

Waiting for the ferry

Identical ferry like the one we are on

Our site at Ocracoke Campground 

Very few people in the campground

The Orcacoke Lighthouse is the oldest operating lighthouse in North Carolina. In 1798 a 54 foot wooden tower was built on Ocracoke Inlet Point. With constant shifting of the inlet the lighthouse became obsolete. It was replaced by a light vessel in 1820 but it to became obsolete in 1822 due to the shifting channel. The present whitewashed tower was completed in 1823 and stands 75 feet tall. The beam is still operational and can be seen 14 miles out to sea.

Ocracoke Lighthouse

The Ocracoke Keepers' Quarters was built in 1823 and expanded in 1929. For over 200 years the building has faced mother natures violent hurricanes and Nor'easters. In 2019 Hurricane Dorian brought record storm surges to Ocracoke Island. The Keepers' Quarters was flooded with 18 inches of water causing severe damage. Over the next 12 months at a cost of $3.6 million the Keepers' Quarters will be raised and repaired along with several other buildings.

The undeveloped, natural shoreline of Ocracoke Island spans 16 miles of beautiful beaches. However, they do not call these waters the graveyard of the Atlantic for no reason. The rough surf and rip tides can be extremely dangerous.

The Ocracoke ponies also called "Banker" horses have been documented on the island since the first Europeans arrived in 1730. Legend has it they were left behind by shipwrecked explorers in the 16th and 17th century.

As tourist began to increase, these free roaming horses were becoming victims of vehicles crashes. So the NPS developed the now Ocracoke Pony Pen to help keep them safe. The historical herd size stand between 9 to 20 horses with the last foal being born in 2018. There are currently no plans of expanding the herd.

After two days of beautiful but very windy weather we left the island the same way we came, on a much larger ferry at the south end of the island. This one cost us $45 and took roughly 2-1/2 hours to cross to the mainland of Cedar Point NC. We had 4-5 foot swells but the ferry ride was very smooth with only a little bit of rocking and rolling. Chalk it up to another wonderful experience.

Cape Hatteras National Seashore

Visited: 8 - 11 November 2024

Nights: 3

Campground: Oregon Inlet

Cape Hatteras National Seashore is made up of barrier islands covering 30,00 acres extending from South Nags Head to Ocracoke Island some 70 miles (110 km). On January 12, 1953 Cape Hatteras National Seashore was established. Over thousands of years the forces of water, wind, and storms have shaped these barrier islands which include Bodie Island, Hatteras Island, and Ocracoke Island.

Our campsite C-15 with electric & water

Beautiful beach just over the dunes from our site

The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse was constructed in 1870 on a hill 1,500 feet from the shore. It remains the tallest brick lighthouse in the United States standing at 198.49 feet. This lighthouse stood tall and fast but the island around it moved. Sand is carrier across the island from east to west due to wind and water causing the island to move westward. By the mid 1990's sand migration reduced the width of the beach in front of the lighthouse down to 150 feet. In 1999, after years of studies and debates, the Cape Hatteras Light Station was moved to its present location. The lighthouse started it's move on 17 June 1999 at a cost of $11.8 million dollar. The light station moved 2,900 feet taking 23 days and now lies 1,500 feet from the seashore, its original distance from the sea. A relighting ceremony took place on 13 November 1999 to celebrate the successful relocation.

After 150 years the lighthouse has withstood numerous hurricanes, nor'easters, earthquakes, and millions of visitors. That being said the tall giant is undertaking a $20 million renovation to repair damage, restore historical features, and repaint to former glory. This renovation has started and is scheduled to take 18 months. So if you are wanting to climb this lighthouse...you have to wait.

Located south of Nags Head NC, Bodie Island Lighthouse was completed in 1872 and stands 150 feet high. It was partly built from leftover material of the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. The first-order Fresnel lens flashes and can be seen 19 miles away. The lighthouse was not open for climbing which is unfortunate but I had the opportunity to climb it many years ago.

While on the Outer Banks we will be visiting the Wright Brothers National Memorial and Fort Raleigh National Historic Site which I hope to blog on next.

Assateague Island National Seashore

Visited: 5 - 8 November 2024

Nights Stayed: 3

Assateague Island National Seashore is located along the Atlantic Ocean in Maryland and Virginia. The 37 mile(60 km) long barrier island has over 41,300 acres of land and water within it's boundaries. The island was founded as a National Seashore in September 1965 and is divided into three areas, Assateague Island NS is managed by the National Parks Service, Assateague State Park is managed by Maryland Parks Service, and Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge is managed by US Fish and Wildlife Service. There is no vehicle access between the Maryland and Virginia districts on the national seashore.

The Maryland side is where we camped for three nights. The park is open year round and  includes a total of 148 campsites all with no hookups. We came prepared with a generator and our camper has a solar panel.

The main goal of coming to the island was to see the wild horses of Assateague Island. These horses are feral animals and are managed as a wildlife population. They have survived the scorching summer heat, brutal wintery storms, horrible mosquitoes, and poor food quality. Where did these horses come from, well there are no known records. Two stories exist, one they are the survivors of a shipwreck off the coast and the second they are the descendants of horses that were brought to Assateague in the late 17th century by mainland owners to avoid laws and taxation on livestock. Which ever one is true they are here to stay.

The horses roam the pine forests, salt marshes, and the beaches of Assateague Island. However, a fence divides the two herds at the Maryland and Virginia state line. The Maryland horses with a population of 80-100 are managed by the National Park Service and are free to roam. While the Virginia herd is owned and managed by the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company with a population of 150 animals. They are corralled in a 14,000 acre pen.

Our campsite

On the Maryland side the horses are free to roam throughout the campground

Travelling around the island one does not have to look very far to see how harsh it can be. The salt marshes, wind, and lack of grasses possess difficult living conditions. However, other wildlife also survive on this island.

I rescued this little guy from being hit by vehicles

Sitka Deer

Visitors Center at Chincoteague - Virginia

The Assateague Lighthouse circa 1867

Corralled horses on Chincoteague

More horses of Assateague Island...I never got tired of watching and photographing them.

A horse traffic jam...it's all about them not us

Amana Colonies - Iowa

The history of the Amana Colonies which was the longest living communal society in America, began in 1714 Germany. This National Historic Landmark continues today in Iowa. In 1714 JF Rock and EL Gruber founded a religious group called the Community of True Inspiration. Their belief is God speaks through prophets with emphases on bible study, reflection, and humility. The Inspirationist beliefs attracted many followers. In Germany they declined military duty and refused to send children to church-run schools. This caused severe conflict between church and government. Consequently, they were subject to fines, imprisonment, and public beatings.

With the threat of persecution and economic depression the community was forced to search for a new home. In September 1842 a committee led by Christian Metz travelled to America to search for land. They purchased 5,000 acres near Buffalo in western New York naming their community the Ebenezer Society. By1846, a constitution was adopted thereby establishing the community as a permanent communal society.

Due to a growing need for more land to feed the increasing community, they looked to Iowa where farmland was cheaper and more fertile. In 1855 the leaders purchased 26,000 acres, and chose the name Amana meaning "remain true". Six villages (Amana, East Amana, West Amana, South Amana, High Amana, and Middle Amana)were established within very close proximity of each other. Homestead village was added in 1861 thereby giving the colony access to the railroad.

All residents in the villages received a home, medical care, meals, household necessities, and schooling for children. The production of wool and farming supported the communities. All resources were shared, no wages were received. Men and women were assigned jobs by the village council. Communal kitchens which were operated by women provided 3 meals daily plus mid morning and mid afternoon snacks. Inspirationists attended church in quiet worship 11 times per week. Churches were located in the center of each village. Kids attended school year round 6 days per week until they were 14 years of age. Girls were then assigned to communal kitchens or gardens, boys to the fields or craft houses.

Faced with mounting debts and youth rebellion in 1932, Amana Colonies stepped away from communal living to seek a different way of life. The Amana Society Inc a for profit sharing corporation was established to manage the farmland, mills, and large businesses. The Amana Church Society continues as the religious foundation of the Amanas today.

Enticed by this amazing history we ventured out on a driving tour to see these villages. Yesterday we walked Amana and saw numerous old building with historic significance. The Amana Heritage Museum was our first stop. It provided an amazing film that documented history and life in the early Amana villages.

Amana

Amana Heritage Museum

Christian Metz House built in 1857

Middle Amana

Between 1885 and 1889 the colonists built a 7 mile long canal(race) to divert water from the Iowa River to water wheels. This race provided water power for two textile mills and a flour mill. Lily Lake was formed when there was a break at Mill Race Levy in 1880 causing flooding of over 170 acres. The lake served as a source of ice and recreational activities for the colonists. The lake gets its name from the yellow American Lotus Lilies that bloom July to end August. Today the lake is only 3 feet at it's deepest.

Lily Lake

Middle Amana Woolen Mill was built in 1867 and provided  a key source of revenue for the Amana Society. The mill operated until 1937 when it proved to be no longer viable. This factory later became home to Amana Refrigeration. Today the only recognizable part of the original Middle Amana Woolen Mill is the tall smoke stack.

Each village had it's own church but this one in Middle Amana was home for the Amana Church Society. Men and women are separated during the church service entering through different entrances. The church buildings had no steeples, no ornamentation, were very similar to other buildings in the village with the exception of size, and had plain scrubbed pine benches.

Today church services are held in English and German

This Copper Shop in Middle Amana is the only surviving cooper shop in all the Amana Colonies. They made all the tubs, barrels, and wagon wheels for the village.

Cooper Shop

High Amana

Each of the seven villages had their own General Store. The store provided extras for members of the community and some essentials for neighbouring farmers.

High Amana General Store

Each village has its own cemetery and members were buried in the village where they lived. It is believed in Amana faith that all people are equal, everyone received the same burial, a plain wooden casket, and a church funeral . The headstone had their name, age, and date of death.

High Amana Village Cemetery

South Amana

The farms in the Amana colonies produced oats, wheat, and rye for local consumption and sale on the market. This granary is the only one with brick exterior walls reflecting a large brickyard in the village. Today, the granary is a private residence.

South Amana Granary

West Amana

West Amana was laid out in 1856 as the second Amana village. Each village had a blacksmith and wagon shop. This blacksmith shop continued to operate until 1960's.

West Amana Blacksmith Shop

Homestead

The Homestead hotel was originally built in 1862  to serve the needs of travelers on the Rock Island Railroad. Following a fire in 1890 it was rebuilt and was one of four hotels located in the Amanas. It remained a hotel until it was purchased from the Amana Society. 

Homestead Hotel

The entire driving tour took us most of the morning and some of the early afternoon. I had no idea this community was here and the history is amazing. Well worth the visit to Amana Iowa. Here are few more pics of local Amana buildings.

Thirteen Stripped Ground Squirrel

Frogtoberfest - Amana, Iowa

Since becoming Forest River product owners, we have tried to take advantage of events they sponsor. This time it's Frogtoberfest, in Amana Iowa from 3-6 October 2024. The prices are usually very reasonable plus you meet new people all who belong to the Forest River Owners Group hence FROG. This event coincides with the town of Amana's Oktoberfest so there should be no shortage of fun and exciting things to see and do. We arrived in Amana on Thursday. After setting up a meet and greet was held. This is where we picked up our packet which detailed the weekend events.  

The original Oktoberfest started in Munich, Germany as a wedding celebration for King Ludwig 1 and Princess Therese in 1810. The event consisted of food, beer, music, and dancing which continued for several weeks. The Amana Oktoberfest came to fruition in 1965 when the idea was proposed for a fun raising event. The event was so successful they held it again the next year, this time it included a parade. Fast forward to 2024 and once again the town has gone all out for a massive Oktoberfest celebration. 

Friday morning we started the weekend celebrations in town, seeing and listening to all the sights and sounds. Warned about limited parking we opted for the free shuttle leaving the truck parked at the campsite. 

Tickets are $15 for one day or $20 for the two day event

Festhalle Barn is where all the bands, music, drinking, and dancing happens

Getting into the spirit of Oktoberfest...we had a great time

Later that evening some FROG events took place including a potluck dinner, camper crawl, and bonfire .

Saturday was another free day to travel into town for more Oktoberfest celebrations. We opted to sightsee the surrounding area but more on that in my next blog. Later that evening the catered dinner, cake cutting, raffle draw, and cornhole tournament took place. 

All in all it was a great time. We met some amazing people who we shared great conversations and stories with. When we decided to make the trip to Amana we had no idea the area was so rich in history. It definitely did not disappoint. Another great event in the books.