St Augustine

Lying on the coast and rich in history is St Augustine, a place we have driven by several times but never stopped. Being less than a hours drive away and looking for an adventurous road trip we decided on St Augustine and in particular the fort of Castillo de San Marcos. Before starting out we noticed several prescribed burns in the area and were thinking twice about going. After checking in at the ranger’s station we were reassured that they were miles away. Easy for them to say since prescribed burns use to be called controlled burns. That’s right controlled. Well as the story goes enough of these burns became uncontrolled leading to large areas being destroyed by an out of control fire. Hence the renaming “prescribed burn”. We decided to go anyway leaving our trust in the knowledgeable forest fire people that it won’t get away from them.

In 1513 Florida was claimed by Spain through the expeditions of Ponce de Leon. St Augustine was established in 1565 by Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles and was the oldest permanent European settlement in the continental United States. It was the political, military, and religious capital of the Province of Florida where Spain ruled for over 235 years. Spanish fleets would sail home from these tropical territories laden with sugar, tobacco, chocolate, pearls, silver, and gold. These products would bring high prices in Europe. Consequently, this made Spain the most powerful and envied nation in Renaissance Europe.

Recognizing the need for a permanent fortification, the construction of Castillo de San Marcos began in 1672 and was completed in 1695. It is the oldest masonry fort in the continental United States. This star shaped masonry fort was made from a stone called coquina meaning small shells. Because of the softness of coquina, cannonballs would sink into the structure rather than shatter or puncture it.

Star shaped masonry fort

The fort was built from coquina
meaning small shells

Susan standing on the only entrance to the fort

The four corners of the fort are protected by diamond shaped bastions. This allowed cannons in one bastion to create crossfire with two other bastions when under attack.

Standing on top of the fort

Looking out at Matanzas Bay

The flag that flies above the fort is known as The Burgundy Cross or the Cross of St Andrews. It became the flag of Spain after Philip of Burgundy ascended the Spanish throne. It was Spain’s flag from 1506-1785. Castillo was once white and trimmed in red to match the flag. It represented Spain’s claim and power over La Florida.

Flag of Spain  1506-1785

The fort is littered with several interesting artifacts and weapons of the time. One such weapon is a bronze 15 inch mortar cannon that was made in 1724 in Barcelona Spain. Its range was 1.2 mile. This particular cannon was captured by the United States during the Spanish American War in 1898.

Mortar cannon

After the siege of 1702 by the British in which St Augustine was burned to the ground, the Spanish surrounded the town with a wall made of earth and palm logs. It also included a wide but shallow moat. The only entrance into the city was from the north. Part of this wall, called the Cubo Line is present on the park grounds.

Part of the Cubo Line that surrounded the city of St Augustine

The Spanish kept the moat dry thereby allowing domestic animals to graze. However, during land attacks the moat could be filled with sea water by opening gates along the seawall. The embankment around the outside of the fort is called a glacis. It protects and shields the lower fort walls from cannon fire.

The walls of the fort surrounded by a moat

Spain held Florida until 1821 when serious Spanish American tensions led to its cession to the United States. In 1933 the fort was transferred from the war department to the National Parks Service.

After a great time exploring the fort our stomachs were yelling at us to feed me please. So away we go on the hunt for a quiet little restaurant preferably over looking the ocean. St Augustine delivered again. We found a great place not far away called South Beach Grill.

Great location

Nice view

Maui Maui fish burger...it was fantastic

Ocala National Forest

A return visit to a national forest is always good in my books. Even better is one that we have truly enjoyed in the past. One where we can swim in a natural spring, kayak a lake to spot manatees, and walk trails searching for endangered birds. Ocala National Forest, more specifically Salt Springs Recreational Area is the forest/campground we have 
returned to.

Entrance to campground

Our site

Ocala National Forest consists of 383,000 acres of land with over 600 lakes, rivers, and springs. It is also the southernmost forest in the continental United States and protects the world’s largest sand pine scrub forest. Prescribed burns are a common site in this area. This one happened to be close by.

Prescribed burn

Located northeast of Ocala, is the small resort community of Salt Springs. Within the Ocala National Forest are four freshwater springs, Alexander Springs, Juniper Springs, Silver Glen Springs, and Salt Springs each with their own unique spring and diverse habitat. The park gets its name from the natural springs that rises from a deep vertical fissure (crack) in the earth. Salt Springs, a second magnitude spring produces 49.5 million gallons of water per day. The salty tasty is a result of the minerals found in the water potassium, sodium, and magnesium. Recent research has shown that the springs had been used by humans more than 5,800 years ago. Archaic occupation ended thousands of years ago, however the attraction of the springs continued. The naturalist William Bartram visited the springs in August 1774 and described it as a place of “spectacular beauty”.

Salt Springs swimming area

Crystal clear water...easy to see fish

The constant with these four springs is the continuous 72 degree temperature. When we were here last time Susan got her first taste of snorkeling. At that time we were swimming with a manatee in the springs, so she was excited about doing it again. However, the weather was not on our side this time around. Sure the water may be 72 but the air temperature got as low as 26 degrees one night. Daytime was mostly in the 50’s so swimming was definitely out of the question. Kayaking was also out since it got pretty windy and the lake was rough. We settled on a few short hikes and also looking for the elusive Red-cockaded Woodpecker. Heard one but never did see one.

When it cools down in the evening, we usually sit outside for a few hours enjoying a campfire. Fellow campers always stop by to start up a conversation about one thing or another.  I have built a tons of campfires in my lifetime some good some not so good, it’s all about the prep work.

Cutting wood

We had bought some wood earlier in the day and I was dying to try out my brand new axe since the last one broke. Sure enough it worked great maybe tooooooo good. A little distraction here, a little miscalculation there and the rest is history.

Oops!

No curse words, no crying, and no lost fingers. As the sun sets I will live to build more campfires.

Gorgeous sunsets

Williston with Friends

A short distance from the campground is a town called Williston and here lies our next adventure.  Almost five years ago we met some wonderful people (Don & Sandy) near Columbus Ohio. I talked their heads off we became instant friends and the rest is history.  On our travels home last winter we were invited to their house in Oklahoma where we were treated to a wonderful supper. Fortunately, our paths have crossed again. We drove to the small town of Williston (population 2,000), found the campground they were staying in, had lots of hugs, and got caught up on the past years events and travels.

Good times with fantastic friends

With all that out of the way it was time to eat. Lately, eating seems like our favorite thing to do. Sandy & Don suggested The Ivy House, a family owned restaurant in Williston with some Southern hospitality and good old home cooked meals. Did they deliver!  

The Ivy House...circa 1917

This two-story early 20th century house was the home of Dr. Willis, the son of the founder of Williston. Next door to the Ivy House is the hospital where Dr. Willis saw his patient, now a Bed and Breakfast.

Bed & Breakfast

 The house was purchased in 1989 by Mimi Hale and was quickly turned into a collection of country style gifts. Mrs. Hale combined her love for cooking to the boutique and added a lunch menu twice a week. Popularity grew consequently the Ivy House is now open for lunch 6 days a week and supper 2 evenings (Friday and Saturday). Don’t be deceived, the surrounding might look like a dainty tea house where the portions are small it’s just the opposite they are generous and the meals are hearty.

Front Entrance

Snuggle up to the cozy fireplace for lunch

Another dining area in the sunroom

Upstairs boutique

We arrived at 1:45 and did not realized they closed at 2 pm. With good old southern hospitality they welcomed us in, showed us to our table, told us the specials, and allowed us time to decide what we wanted. No rushing here. I had the Baked Crispy Chicken while Susan had the Southern Fried Shrimp and Grouper.

Baked Crispy Chicken, Cheesy Mac & Cheese, & Corny Cornbread 

Southern Fried Shrimp & Grouper

Fantastic food

After a great lunch/supper, we stopped at the Williston Peanut Factory to take a gander. Not that anyone could eat another morsel we were interested in seeing what they had.

Williston Peanut Factory

 

The Welcome Peanut

Of course the first thing I asked was did they give tours of the factory? The young lady behind the counter politely said NO. End of discussion! Okay, well maybe I will just buy some peanuts instead. There are 4 types of peanuts grown in the United States: Runner, Valencia, Spanish, and Virginia. Peanuts are planted in April and harvested after 120 to 160 days in September/ October. Unlike most plants, the peanut plant flowers above the ground but the fruit develops below the surface.

Peanuts growing below the surface

The harvesting of peanuts occurs in two stages. When 70% of the crop has reached maturity a digger-inverter pulled behind a tractor loosens the plant and severs the taproot. The digger-shaker lifts the plant, gently shakes the soil loose and inverts it to cure or dry for 2-3 days.

Peanuts ready for harvest

 The second phase takes place when a combine machine separates the peanut from the plant. The peanut goes into a hopper while the plant is returned to the field. Freshly dug peanuts are placed in a peanut wagon where circulating forced air allows them to further cure. The moisture content is reduced to 10%, ready for storage.

Had to try some product: Chocolate covered pecans, Double 
dipped chocolate covered peanuts, and Peanut brittle 

 After visiting the peanut factory we went back to Don & Sandy's rig to sit while our bellies rest. I think I need a snooze. It's all that home cooked food. If I keep this up I will need a new pant size.

Sandy and Susan enjoying an after
diner beverage

Cedar Key

Meeting up with friends from Ontario is always an exciting time, so when Kathy and Bob told us they were camping near Dunnellon we were extremely excited. We met these two wonderful people on our Labrador and Newfoundland trip this past summer and instantly made a great connection. After all the catching up was done we headed out to Cedar Key for a day of adventure. I was delegated the travel guide for the day so I did my homework the night before.

Our first stop was Cedar Key Museum State Park. One strike against me! I did not do my homework well enough; the museum is closed on Tuesdays. Yep, today is Tuesday. Oh well, no one cared we looked around, gained some Cedar Key knowledge, hiked to the water’s edge, and had fun.

Cedar Keys consists of a group of six islands with Ways Key being the most populated. According to the 2010 census the population is 702 individuals. Evidence indicates that the area was populated as far back as 500 B.C. During the civil war, the confederates used Cedar Key to produce salt which was an important factor in the preservation of meat. Surrounded by water hurricanes and storms have destroyed the area numerous times. The Eagle Pencil Company was established and provided a solid economic base for the area. Unfortunately, in 1896 a hurricane destroyed the factory causing them to close. But the people have survived thanks to the clam industry. With the smell of clam bags in the air, today Cedar Key boosts the largest clam industry in the US. 

Whitman House

...it's only a one holer

Salt Kettle

Great friends...having fun

With all that walking around we got very hungry. Luckily I had done my homework the night before and decided we needed to eat at Tony’s Seafood Restaurant. Their clam chowder is a 3X winner at the national cook off and it did not disappoint. It was fantastic.

Tony's Seafood Restaurant

The famous chowder

After a wonderful lunch we walked some more. Unfortunately the day was cool and overcast but we were able to walk along Dock Street window shopping. Cedar key is known as an Artist’s Mecca with store after store displaying wonderful eclectic merchandise.

Information post

Shops and restaurants suspended above the Gulf

Cedar Key Museum

...all about the fishing

Everyone is welcome

Downtown streets & stores

On the way home we decided to check out Cedar Key Scrub State Reserve for a final hike of the day. And of course the clouds have moved off and the sun has come out. What a wonderful hike, walking and talking enjoying the sun. We get to an intersection, we stop, all look at one another with a “which way do we go”. Did anyone pick up a map? Nope! Well hold on I took a picture of the preserve trails so let’s take a look.

Can you see me in the reflection
taking the picture

The skies finally cleared for a wonderful walk through the forest

So the moral of this story is, if there are no maps take a picture with your phone or camera. It certainly helps at a time like this. We had a fantastic day with fantastic friends and looking forward to seeing them again back in Ontario.