A Salmon Success Story

Getting up in the morning to the sound of waves hitting the beach has to be the most relaxing sound. Susan and I sat outside drinking coffee, watching the surf, looking for whales, and maybe the odd moose or caribou to stroll through. The morning flew by so we decided to eat lunch at the Anchor Café. It came highly recommended by numerous people.

The Anchor Cafe

The inside is like a family restaurant with tons of Newfoundland artistry.

Fisherman Buoys

Captain of the ship

We both ordered the pan-fried cod and were not disappointed. Many times we get fish and it’s overcooked and tastes like rubber. This was moist and done to perfection.

Pan-Fried Cod

I guess they get fresh fish daily since the fish factory is just across the road. All the boats are still in harbour awaiting the run of capelin.

Fish Factory

Boat in dock waiting for the capelin

After lunch Susan wanted to find a dollar store so we drove the short distance to Torrent River. While we were there we decided to check out the Salmon Interpretation Center.

Interpretation Center

The center

Since the early 19th century, the Torrent River has been synonymous with salmon fishing. However, over the next four decades the river’s wild Atlantic salmon became depleted. Poaching, over harvesting by commercial fisheries, and habitat destruction were the causes. Fortunately, Fisheries and Oceans Canada not only restocked the river but they also built a fishway past the 10m falls.

Concrete spillway with falls in background

For a meager $6 we toured the facilities and learnt about wild Atlantic salmon in the Torrent River. As we were reading the information upstairs in the museum, one young lady indicated there was a salmon in the fishway. Good timing or what.

Salmon in the fishway... how cool

When the salmon enter the fishway they can go only one way. It is here they are counted, measured, photographed, and then released into the river to spawn.

Fish are measured & photographed

With the blackflies as big as cockroaches I still wanted to hike down the Hogan Trail to see people fly fishing. Fishing on this river is strictly enforced. You are only allowed to fly fish on the river and right now its catch and release only. Absolutely no fishing above the falls.

Fly fishing only

On our way back home we drove through the very small village of Port Saunders. It’s obvious that the main source of income in this village is fishing.

Out with the old...

...in with the new

Another wonderful day spent discovering new place.

Fast Facts: Wild Atlantic Salmon

* wild Atlantic salmon have been declared endangered in 32 rivers in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia and 8 rivers in Maine

* Atlantic salmon is only one of 87 species that migrate between fresh water and the ocean

* wild Atlantic salmon can jump 3.8 m (12 f00t) waterfalls

* the closest relative of an Atlantic salmon is the brown trout

* wild Atlantic salmon can live 15 years

* wild Atlantic salmon lose all their teeth and grow new ones when they return to fresh water from the sea


* wild Atlantic salmon can attain speeds of 30km (20m/h)

Port au Choix

If we didn’t have other places to see, we would stay here for a while longer. It’s quiet, the people are great, and the scenery is wonderful. Not to mention the fresh homemade partridgeberry pie is a definite draw. But we do have to move on. We are heading south to a town called Port au Choix. Travelling along any road at any time of day you have to watch for moose. Point in case, it was 11 am and on the side of the road 100 yard in front was a large bull moose getting ready to cross the road. I stopped in time, he went into the bush but that wasn’t the scary part. I looked in my rear view mirror and a transport truck was barreling down on me. When I slowed for the moose the truck did not. I pulled over and he passed me at 100km/h. Wow, dodged another one.

We arrived at Ocean Side RV Park just as our x tail gunner and his wife from Adventure Tours was leaving. We stopped and chatted for a short period then continued on into the park. Our friends Chris and Curt from the same caravan had not left yet either. We chatted for a few minutes with them and then they had to leave. Alone again.

Our rig and the view

After lunch we drove out to Port au Choix National Historic Visitor Center to view the findings of four ancient cultures. Once there we watched a short film explaining what researchers have found in the area.

National Historic Site

Gathering Circle

For over 6000 years Port au Choix has been a crossroads for both native North American and European cultures. The common connection is the areas rich marine resources which included fish and seal. Like today, many people in nearby communities of Port au Choix depend on the sea for their livelihood.

Fishing Village

Wire sculpture tribute to seal hunters

In the 1920’s archaeologists uncovered four ancient cultures in this area. The Maritime Archaic Indians were the first aboriginal inhabitants of Labrador and Newfoundland arriving 9000 years ago. The Groswater Paleoeskimo were the first arctic-adapted people to inhabit Newfoundland arriving from the Canadian Arctic and Greenland 2800 to 1900 years ago.  The Dorset Paleoeskimo were the second arctic-adapted people living on the island 2100 to 1900 years ago. Lastly, ancestors of the Beothuk people lived on the island 2000 years to the historic period.

Leaving the Visitors Center we ventured to the Port Riche Lighthouse. This lighthouse is owned by the Canadian Coast Guard and is still active. However, it is closed to the public so access to the inside is not permitted. 

Port Riche Lighthouse

As I stood looking over the limestone barren landscape I could see in the distance 3 caribou walking over the hill. It was way too far away to take a picture so I took a picture of a flower instead. Works for me.

Blue Flag Iris

As we were leaving the park, off to the left we saw a bull moose just sauntering through the field like he had no cares in the world. He saw me, I saw him, I got his picture, and he did not care.

Bull Moose just walking across the field

L'Anse aux Meadows

L’Anse aux Meadows is the only recognized authentic Viking site to date in North America and also is the earliest evidence that Europeans were in the western hemisphere. It was designated a National Historic Site in 1975 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978.

L'Anse aux Meadows

UNESCO symbol

Sculptures of Norse people

"The Meeting of Two Worlds Sculpture"

L’Anse aux Meadows is a small northeastern village that probably got its name from l’anse a la Medee meaning Medea’s Cove. This area was part of the French Shore until 1904. By treaty the French were allowed to fish and establish shore stations. These shore stations were often named after ships that worked the area. In the 1600’s many ships were name Medea after the heroine of Greek tragedy. The English altered the name after they settled the area. However, the waters in front are still called Medea Bay today.

Medea Bay

We watched a short film which did a fantastic job of explaining the arrival of the Norse to this area. Why did the Norse build here? Location, location, location. This was the mid-way point between Greenland and the riches to the south. It’s not a sheltered harbour but was close to the sea route to Greenland. The sailing season was short. By over-wintering here it allowed the Norse to gather lumber and other trade goods and repair their boats before heading home. The Norse were great ship builders. Their ocean going vessels were strong enough to withstand the North Atlantic, able to carry large amounts of cargo, and be drawn into shore without damage.

4 types of Norse ships

The remains of Norse buildings were found and excavated in 1960 by a Norwegian writer and explorer Helge Ingstead. It consisted of three halls and five smaller buildings where the Norse lived and worked.

A large hall built for someone of high status...Jasper chips 
indicated they were from Iceland

A small hut probably used by women as a workshop

A boardwalk leads to an area where sod huts were reconstructed and actors tell tales of living in Norse society. They were cooking a fish stew over the fire. Boy did it smell good.

Actors dressed in period costume

Actors knitting and talking

Sleeping quarters

Reconstructed building

Reconstructed Large Hall

What a great place and after smelling the wonderful smells we decided to go for lunch at the Norseman of L’Anse aux Meadows. Who do we see, the Norse Viking from the Heritage Site entertaining the crowd.

Viking actor turned singer

Lunchtime

Vinland Martini

Seafood Chowder

Smoked salmon, goat cheese, & shrimp flatbread

After being thoroughly entertained and full from great food, we walked around L’anse aux Meadows. That took all of 5 minutes.

Lief Erickson...the Viking conqueror

Back at the campground we sat around the campfire having a cocktail. It was our friends last day with us since they were catching the ferry to Nova Scotia in a couple of days.

Ted & Bev

Bob & Cathy

As the day draws to a close another friend shows up for a free handout.

Snowshoe hare with white feet still

We are sad that our friends have to leave but its time for Susan I to go exploring on our own.

Raleigh, NL

During our nightly social, the six of us decided to check out the area, beginning with some icebergs, then the fishing village of Raleigh, and finally Burnt Cape Ecological Reserve.

Finding icebergs around her is not hard; you just have to look out to sea. This year is one of the best years for viewing them in recent history.

Many, many icebergs in the harbours

Arctic icebergs come from Greenland and flow past northern Labrador to the Grand Banks, this is referred to as iceberg alley.

Map of iceberg flow

How are icebergs formed you ask! Simply put, when the glacier that covers Greenland moves to the edge of land and extends over the edge, pieces break off and fall into the ocean. This process is called “calving”.

Glacier "calving"

Not far from our camping area is the small village of Raleigh with its rich history of fishing. The original name of this village was Ha Ha Bay.  The French gave it this name when they claimed the Old French Shore as part of their migratory cod fishery. The French never settled in Ha Ha Bay but by the mid-1800s English settlements started popping up. By 1921, 33 families called this place home. Wishing to rename the community one suggested Raleigh after his short visit to North Carolina.

Town of Raleigh

Old fishing huts

The uniqueness about Raleigh that drew us here is the opportunity to participate as part of a traditional fishing village. You live in bunkhouses, fish from a trap skiff, set a cod trap, then clean and salt your catch. How cool is that. Unfortunately the season has not started yet so we were out of luck. The town still showed us some uniqueness.

Laundry day

A seagull chasing a young eagle...silly bird

Beautiful carving done by a local

All of us had decided to bring along a picnic lunch hoping to find a nice place with a view. Raleigh is adjacent to Cape Burnt Ecological Reserve which has over 300 species of plants and of those 30 are rare plants. We ventured over to the Cape for lunch. Thank goodness our vehicles were 4X4s. What a fantastic find.

How pristine is that

Wildflowers of Cape Burnt

Whether it’s looking out to sea, exploring the rock formations, or simply finding different plants and flowers it will instill in all of us the beauty of this country we call home. If it’s your first time or if you have been here before, it will take your breath away each and every time.

 Fast Facts: Icebergs
* the frozen water that makes an iceberg is fresh water

* as many as 1,600 icebergs or more can drift southward past St John’s each year

* the drift of icebergs from their origin on the west coast of Greenland to the coast of Newfoundland is about 1,800 nautical miles and takes an average of 2 to 3 years

* Arctic icebergs have reached as far south as the island of Bermuda, a journey of 2,500 miles and an Antarctic iceberg has reached almost as far north as Rio de Janeiro a journey of 3,440 miles

* the temperature inside is believed to be -15 C, at the surface the temperature is about 0 C

* the age of the ice that makes up an iceberg is believed to at least 12,000 years old

* the biggest iceberg ever recorded was 208 miles long and 60 miles wide, a total of 12,000 square miles…bigger than Belgium. The tallest ever recorded was 550 feet which is just over half of the Eiffel Tower

* the international ice patrol which tracks movement of all icebergs and sea ice was formed as a result of the Titanic sinking in 1912.