Havre Aubert Island Part 2

 

Hundreds of years before the arrival of the first Europeans, the Mi’kmaq Indians came to the islands to fish and hunt the large walrus population. A number of archaeological sites have been excavated on the islands to prove these findings.
In 1534 Jacques Cartier was the first European to visit the islands. It is believed the first islands he set foot on were Rocher-aux-Oiseaux (Bird Rock) and Brion Island.

In 1755, the islands became inhabited by French speaking Acadians. This was due to the “Grand Derangement” (the exile) of Acadian people from the Maritime Provinces. Today many Madelinots fly the Acadian flag as they think of themselves as both Acadians and Quebecois.

After the French Revolution in 1789 other families came to the islands led by father Jean-Baptite Allain, whom created the first records of colonization for the Magdalens.

The Magdalen Islands have seen its fair share of tragedy with more than 400 shipwrecks recorded. Today 6 lighthouses still project their life-saving beams to help guide the vessels.

With so much history and beauty I found myself asking the question how do I show the islands off in a fashion that I don’t repeat myself? Well I decided to showcase each island separately. Each has its own uniqueness and similarities.

Plage du Cap

 Further down the road is Anse Shea and La Grave with their steep cliffs.

Anse Shea

Anse Shea



One of the main attractions on Havre-Aubert Island is the historical site of La Grave which comes from the French “greve” means pebbles and sandy terrain. Preserving its original purpose as a meeting place, it now boasts several arts & crafts shops, restaurants, businesses, and cafes.



Overlooking the village of La Grave

One of many craft shops in La Grave

More unique craft shops in La Grave

Lobster boats at the La Grave Dock

Lunch at Vent du large-Bleu Mer in La Grave

Eating lunch we are sooooo happy the food was fabulous

Seal




When Sue and I go to different places we always like to try foods from the area. Seal is very popular in the Magdalens so we had to try it. To start the meat is very dark and strong tasting. It was tender but somewhat dry. However it was served with applesauce which is always good. If given the opportunity I would eat it again.



Our main course of fish and chips






Friendly Nova Scotians

We met these wonderful people walking through La Grave Tat, John, Kevin, & Lois. They decided to have lunch at the same restaurant.


Our happy waitress Pierette

High on the hill overlooking La Grave is the Musee de la Mer (Museum of the Sea)with exhibits depicting the Islands history. The puncheon boat is one such item. Until the 20th century, the islands were completely isolated during the winter. The ice made the trip to the mainland impassable by boat consequently communicate with the mainland was impossible. In the winter of 1910, an urgent request for help was sent to the mainland inside a molasses barrel (or puncheon), which they set adrift. Upon reaching Cape Breton Island, the government sent out an icebreaker to bring aid. Within a few years, the Magdalens were given one of the new wireless telegraph stations. The puncheon is now famous, and every tourist shop sells replicas.

The puncheon

Cannon found in the entrance to the Havre-Albert Marina dating back to Louis XVI 



Replica of Seal hunting boat

As we toured further around Havre Aubert Island we found many wonderful beaches. There are two types of rock cliffs on the Magdalens, one being gray sandstone and the other red sandstone.

A house getting closer to the sea

The Magdalen Islands have seen its fair share of tragedy with more than 400 shipwrecks recorded. Today 6 lighthouses still project their life-saving beams to help guide the vessels.

Anse a la Cabane Lighthouse

The lighthouse protects from these cliffs

 

As the road snakes around to the far west side of the island you reach Plage de l’Quest. With its long sandy beaches and beautiful sand dunes many hours can easily be spent here walking the beach.

The sand dunes of Plage de l’Quest



The red cliffs near Plage de l’Quest

The long sandy beaches

Enjoying a day at the beach

Moving away from the beach and going more inland, Havre Aubert Island has the most extensive forest of all islands in the archipelago.



Thick forests and a roadside filled with summer flowers

After a long day of sightseeing and soaking up the sun supper was calling. There are so many wonderful places to eat we decided on one in La Grave called Auberge Chez Denis a Francois. We were not disappointed.

Wonderful old house turned into an inn/restaurant