Quirpon, NL

The day started at 5 am with getting up to the alarm clock and pouring rain outside and I mean torrential. Today we make the trek across the water to Newfoundland on the 8 am ferry. Susan and I are both excited because we leave the caravan and start to do our own thing.

We leave the campground at 6:30 drive 15 minute drive to the ferry and wait in line. At 7:15 am Burt our wagon master comes around with numbers and indicated that we might not all get on this sailing. I guess the ferry overbooked even though we had reservations. There are 8 of us and guess who gets number 8. You got it, Susan and myself.

At 8 am the ferry is loaded and a really nice lady comes up to me as I eagerly await my turn to get on and says in her Newfie ascent " I'm sorry me darlin' your not going to get on to this boat". Everyone is on except Susan and myself even the tailgunner who is suppose to be last.

Fast forward about 20 minutes as we wait and lots of juggling of vehicles, the head load master waves me on the boat. Hallelujah. I drive onto the ferry very slowly because there's not that much room. I stop then he tells me it won't work and I have to back off again and wait for the next sailing. You can't imagine what Susan and I said and how we felt.

They moved a small white truck off then drove it to the outer side of the ferry. I was motioned back on the ferry. This time it was millimeters between me and the vehicles on each side. At one point 4 guys rocked the white truck back and forth to manually move it over 6 inches. That's a first for me but obviously not for them, they look like they have done it before. We're on, the ferry doors close, and we are off. Talk about stress. There's more to this story but I have to omit it because I definitely was not a happy camper.

We reached the Viking RV Park in Quirpon (pronounce Car - poon). As we pulled in the sun came out and it turned warm.

Beautiful blue sky and nice campground

Our site 30 amp service and water, life is good

Showers don't look like much but they are
clean with lots of hot water

Nice tenting sites but black flies are terrible everywhere

Two other couples, Ted & Bev and Bob & Cathy from the caravan decided to stay at the park also. We decided to carry on the tradition of happy hour, so we sat by the campfire reminiscing about the trip so far. Earlier Bob tried his luck fishing in the lake but caught nothing.

I can see this lake out my window

I was up early the next morning and as I looked across the road a moose came out of the bush. I got my camera and away I went.

Not one but two moose

Not two but four moose

How wonderful is that, a great way to start my day and our trip to Newfoundland.

L'Anse-au-Clair

With our time in Labrador coming to an end most of us took the next few days to see the Labrador and Northern Quebec coast. L'Anse au Clair was established by the French in the 1800. With a population today of approximately 241 we decided to start our countryside touring at the Visitor Center.

Visitors Center formerly St Andrew's Church
 circa 1919

A short distance up the road in L'Anse Amour is the site of North America's Oldest Funeral Monument. Today it is a National Historic Site. About 7,500 years ago, almost 2,000 years before the Great Pyramids were constructed, a young Maritime Archiac Indian died. The body was covered with red ochre, wrapped in skins and placed in a large pit 1.5 meters deep. Several items were placed in the grave with this child such as a walrus tusk, a harpoon head, and a bone whistle.

L'Anse Amour Burial Site

Continuing along we came to Point Amour Lighthouse which happens to be Atlantic Canada's Tallest lighthouse at 109 feet.

On a clear day you can see Newfoundland

The view from the top and yes I could see Newfoundland

Travelling the opposite way meaning towards Quebec we stopped to walk the beach, find shells, and bird watch. Lots of beach, few shells and fewer birds.

Everyone enjoying the beach

 There's always an abundance of wildflower in Labrador. I don't know half their names but many are beautiful.

? unknown wildflower

Another unknown wildflower

Moving down the highway we came to a wonderful waterfalls called Brador Falls with it's multi-levels and fast flowing water.

Brador Falls

The lower north shore's geology is comprised of pre-Cambrian rocks. When the glaciers advanced and retreated they carved and shaped the rugged landscape. Giant boulders deposited by the receding glaciers can be seen over the land.

Large boulders deposited after glaciers receded

We finally came to the end of the road where we can not go any further. Even though we were in Quebec many of the people spoke just English.

The end of the road

On the way back we stopped at a local fisherman's place. We couldn't believe our good fortune. He had fresh mussels and lobster. The business was family run and consisted of himself, his wife, and two nieces. We walked away with 10 lbs of cooked mussels and 4 lobsters.

Cleaning the mussels

Cleaned, ready for cooking

He doesn't know it yet but I'm looking
at supper

Curt and the owner

The last day in Labrador we had our farewell dinner at the Oceanview Motel. We had a choice of chicken, pork chops, or cod. Most chose cod and it was really good.

The view was amazing

Everyone enjoying their meal

...and dessert

Well, farewell to Labrador hello Newfoundland. It's an early night since we have to be on the ferry by 7:00 am.

Red Bay and Beyond

As everyone left Mary’s Harbour there was a lot of sorrow in our hearts for Russell & Stephen and their now deceased companion Lulu. I felt particularly bad since there was nothing I could do. But we pressed on and again the roads were terrible. Construction crews were working hard on the roads to widen them. By the end of next summer the road from Port Hope Simpson to Red Bay will be paved. I’m sure that will make a difference in the tourism business.

Construction crew hard at work

Once we reached Red Bay I did my happy dance since all roads from here on are paved. Whether good or bad we will take pavement.

Yeah! Pavement

There is a fantastic museum in Red Bay so we decided to stop for lunch and investigate it.

The Strait of Belle Isle has been home to many inhabitants but most recently it's been the Norse, Basques, French, and English. These cultures were attracted  to the area by the bountiful resources of fish, seal, and whale. In the 1970's a Basque whaling boat was discovery in Red Bay. It is over 400 years old and is the oldest example of its kind on display. 

A Basque Chalupa

Archaeologists have uncovered thousands of artifacts in Red Bay that proves the area was used by Basque whale hunters.

A harpoon

Blue painted porringer common in Spain in 16th century
found in Red Bay

A 16th century galleon believed to be the San Juan was also discovered. The vessel was loaded with 800-1000 barrels of oil. Unfortunately it is thought that it broke it's anchor in a violent storm in 1565 and sank. The galleon was recorded, dismantled, then returned to its watery grave to help preserve it.

Artist's replica of the San Juan Galleon

After touring the museum we all decided to go for lunch at the Whaler's restaurant. The bay was behind us providing wonderful views.

Getting up close to an iceberg

A newer shipwreck lies on the sea floor

Continuing on down the road we leave Red Bay with more knowledge and full bellies. Can't get any better than that. Well maybe seeing a beautiful flowing river is always nice.

Nice view from a bridge

We arrive in West Saint Modeste's Oceanview Campground but they are unable to accommodate the large rigs. So we move on to L'Anse au Clair which is 24 miles down the road. This campground has full service (W/E/S) sites and we are all in heaven. We are here for 3 nights, hallelujah. Let the party or social hour begin.

Battle Harbour

The next morning bright and early half of us were loaded into a bus for a 5 minute ride to the dock. Once there we crawled onto a small boat and headed for Battle Harbour, 9 miles off shore. It usually takes a half hour but because the winds are so bad it is going to an hour.

Yep...10 of us in this small boat in the middle of the ocean...where
did you say the Titantic sank

Leaving the safety of Mary's Harbour...the big building in the
middle is where we are camping

Fishing fleet in harbour

Yes there were icebergs and land was not always in sight

We've arrived

Battle Harbour is located on Battle Island across the "tickle" from Great Caribou Island. It was once the salt fish capital of Labrador. Fishing was established on the island by John Poole of England in 1775. Over centuries it was a major commercial center for cod, seal, and salmon. Today, Battle Harbour holds two distinctions, National Historic Site and Historic District of Canada.

Do you think it was cold and wet

Now we have to wait until the other group arrives which will be about 2 hours. Hopefully there is a warm place to hang out. As we entered the General Store we were met with wonderful smells and a toasty wood burning stove.

Hot coffee, tea and delicious
 cakes and pastries

Making fresh treats just
for us

After everyone arrived we went on a tour of the village. Many of the buildings have been restored to their original beauty.

The salt store...salt would be unloaded
from ships and stored

The salmon store

Homes on "the tickle"

Why a teepee of wood you ask! Well the answer is simple. When you have 10 feet of snow on the ground its pretty hard to find. This way they can still see it.

Wood teepee

Old fishing "flakes" and fish storage building 

I'll wait thanks

As we continued our tour we kept spotting an Arctic Fox that seemed to be following us.

He was quite friendly but skiddish

Once our tour was completed we were treated to a wonderful home cooked lunch right on the premises.

Turkey, potatoes, gravy, veggies, and partridge berry sauce. Yum

Yep that's me in my winter skiing cloths

The trip back to Mary's Harbour took less time because the wind had subsided. Once home all I wanted was a nice hot shower. Of course I can’t so I had something nice and warm to drink "Newfoundland Screech",  that worked. 

Shortly after arriving home , a knock at the door stopped me from drinking the whole bottle. It was the boys, they wanted me to take a look at their dog. Well long story short, she must have had a stroke and subsequent seizure when they were gone. Shortly thereafter she passed away. It was very sad but now the problem is how to dispose of a large dog in no-mans-land Labrador. The next day they decided to cross on the ferry to Corner Brook which will take 2-3 days to get there. That's the only place that will cremate a dog. WOW another caravan couple gone. This trip is not, and I repeat is not for the weak at heart.

Oh, I guess your wondering what a "tickle" is. Well, when a boat passes through a strait between 2 island the waves come ashore and tickles both sides. Its a Newfoundland saying and I love it.